Jess Moss Travel

Category: Blog

  • Is Rio Safe?

    Is Rio Safe?

    Rio botanical garden
    Rio’s heavily guarded botanical garden is a nice place to wander

    Safety was my main concern when visiting Rio de Janeiro. I’d heard stories of muggings from people who’d visited, advice from former residents to avoid hills and the beach at night, and terrible accounts of attacks on tourists on public transit.

    Overall, I didn’t feel as safe as I do wandering around New York. You do need to keep your guard up, and there are some areas you should know to avoid. However, as a female traveler touring solo at times, I never felt unsafe because of my gender — Rio is a great place for women to travel alone.

    Here are my tips for staying safe in Rio:

    Learn a little bit of Brazilian Portuguese
    I can’t stress this enough. English is not as widely spoken as it is in say, Europe, and Spanish, despite some similarities, is not the same as Portuguese (thanks, Captain Obvious). It’s incredibly helpful to know a few phrases and words in Portuguese for taxis, asking directions and ordering food (greetings, ‘where is,’ right/left, basic numbers, and of course, “obrigada”).

    It’s OK to bring a nice camera, just make sure it’s inconspicuous
    I left my DSLR at home because I didn’t want to look like a target with a nice piece of equipment. I regret that. Not only was my little point-and-shoot insufficient for the this-place-can’t-really-be-real views from Sugarloaf and the Corcovado, Rio is a tourist destination, and as a tourist you’ll be going to places where cameras are common. That said, if you do have a big camera, be sure to have a non-camera-specific bag or purse that you can stow it in while you do your exploring.

    Leave the fancy jewelry at home
    A friend pointed out that the beautiful women of Rio are far more stylish than I’ll ever be, so I shouldn’t worry about fashion. That’s true, and I doubt my fake diamond studs from Target would have lured muggers out of dark corners. At the same time, it was easier to leave the nice looking stuff at home and just not worry about it. As for what to wear in Rio, keep in mind it’s a beachy city and the land of Havaianas, so put on flip flops and some casual beachwear and you’ll be good to go.

    Don’t bring a towel to the beach
    Cariocas don’t really use beach towels, so laying one out on the sand screams “I’m a tourist.” Then again, ladies, if you’re wearing a typical American-style U-bottomed bikini you’ll look like a tourist anyway.

    Bring a Blackberry, hide your iPhone
    I met an American couple who had recently moved down to Rio. When I asked about safety the guy shrugged and said, “Everyone has their mugging story.” His was my favorite: he was walking at night when a teenage boy approached and pulled out a knife. The boy asked for the guy’s cell phone, which he handed over without a fuss. The boy looked at the device — a Blackberry — and handed it back with a sneer, saying, “I don’t want this, it’s not an iPhone.”

    Bring cash, change it when you arrive in the airport and keep it in your hotel
    ATMs can be a nightmare in Rio if you have a U.S. bank account. We spent 1 hour machine-hopping to about 8 ATMs, none of which would dispense cash for a Chase account, until finally returning to one of the first ones we tried, which produced cash the second time around. Also potentially from ATMs: a friend traveling to Rio at the same time for work reported that four of her colleagues had their debit accounts hacked.

    Take cabs
    At the airport you can pre-pay for your taxi into the city. Once in the city, cabs are pretty easy to hail and aren’t terribly expensive (compared to other things in Rio). Some guidebooks suggest taking a cab at night even if you’re walking 100 yards. In Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon that’s a little overcautious, but if you’re going to the clubs in Lapa you definitely definitely want to avoid walking.

    Don’t go on the beach at night
    Given the staggering number of beach-worshippers by day in Rio, it was a little spooky to see how quickly the sand clears out once the sun goes down. Copacabana recently installed lights where the beach hits the street, but deeper into the sand it’s still dark. Ipanema and Leblon were pitch black. In general, while the beach bar huts are a fun stop for a nightcap, it’s not advisable to wander around the dark beach itself at night.

    Do not avoid Lapa, but be careful here
    Lapa’s the undisputed nightlife hub of Rio — many of the music and samba clubs are here. But it’s also a neighborhood that’s still shedding its shady past, so while walking around at day is now relatively safe (thanks to an increased police presence), walking extensively at night is not. Local ladies I spoke to say they slide some money in their bra or shoe when going out here — purses are a no-no. And keep those cell phones hidden; I heard multiple accounts of phone snatchers pulling them off people’s ears mid-convo.
    *One thing to note about Lapa and night safety in general: while the risks are there regardless, a lot of tourists make themselves larger targets by getting too drunk. If you don’t want to get mugged, a good place to start is to not stumble incoherently around the streets.

    Avoid favelas, except with an organized group or on invitation
    That whole “don’t walk up hills” bit rings true. In Rio, what would be the most expensive, glitzy ocean-view hillside real estate in California is taken up by favelas. These shanty towns may look a bit like the cliff villages on the Amalfi Coast, but here they’re associated with poverty, the country’s extreme income gap, and gangs and drug trafficking. Not really an ideal spot for an evening stroll. Favelas are opening up to tourists more these days, and can be vibrant and welcoming places to explore, but it’s still best to visit with an organized tour or by invitation from someone in the community.

    Know your neighborhoods
    Even if a neighborhood doesn’t have a reputation for being unsafe, it might not be the smartest place to stay. Santa Teresa is a little hilltop artists’ hood. While it’s still not the safest place at night, some wonderful boutique hotels are drawing visitors to stay here. Once here, however, many guests discover that it can be a real pain to find a taxi to actually drive you up the windy streets to get to your lodgings. If it’s late and you’re trying to get home from a club in Lapa, you really don’t want taxi after taxi saying no way, I won’t go there.

    More photos of Rio de Janeiro and Brazil

    This blog post is my own opinion and is based on my experiences on the ground in Rio de Janeiro. 

  • Where to Eat in New York

    Where to Eat in New York

    I’m terrible at remembering where I dined, and with so many restaurants in New York (and a revolving door of newcomers and outgoers) it was always a bit overwhelming to be tasked with choosing where to eat. In order to help people visiting the city — or other New Yorkers drowning in choices — here’s a list of the restaurants where I had a good, memorable, or just cheap and easy meal. It’s by no means comprehensive, and you’ll notice my food palate might not be as diverse or refined as say, Adam Platt’s, but hopefully it’s a useful resource as you strike out into the culinary capital of the U.S.

    Price ranges:
    $ – “Cheap enough to eat even if you’re broke”
    $$ – “Casual meal out, usually under $30”
    $$$ – “Weekend or nicer dinner, usually under $60”
    $$$$ – “Special occasion… or if someone else is footing the bill”

    Uptown (Upper East and West)

    Bellini: The affordable pizzas and pastas are worth a visit alone, but what really makes this tiny place a winner is the BYOB policy. (Plus it’s next to a wine store.)
    Good for: group dinners, delivery, dates, and friend dins
    $$ | bellininy.com | Upper West Side

    Boat Basin: I’ve never met someone who doesn’t like Boat Basin. The standard grill food’s fine if you’re hungry but the open-air riverfront setting is the main draw – it’s the best place to catch sunset over a few a beers.
    Good for: everything and everyone… unless you’re looking for a fancy experience
    $$ | www.boatbasincafe.com | Upper West Side

    City Diner: I don’t want to know how many grilled cheeses I’ve demolished here at around 5 am after a night out. But they were all awesome, and this large, spiffy 24-hr diner is equally awesome for breakfast or brunch.
    Good for: late night munchies, small group breakfasts
    $ | City Diner on Google+ | Upper West Side

    Calle Ocho: The home of the famous Sangria Brunch. They serve 8 different kinds and keep ’em coming throughout the meal.
    Good for: brunch, girls’ night
    $$$ | www.calleochonyc.com | Upper West Side

    Carmine’s: Ok, it’s a chain, but it’s a chain from New York, and the family-style Italian place is great for group outings.
    Good for: family dinners, groups, anyone who’s really really hungry
    $$$ | www.carminesnyc.com | Upper West Side

    Celeste: You’ll probably walk right past it since there’s no sign or awning, but that keeps the mobs from discovering the perfect wood-fired pizza here.
    Good for: girls’ din
    $$$ | celestenewyork.com | Upper West Side

    Central Park Boathouse: I actually didn’t think the food here was anything to write about (though I heard there’s new management so it might be different), but there’s a reason this elegant breezy boathouse is in so many rom-coms… the lakeside setting is perfect.
    Good for: parent visits, dates
    $$$$ | www.thecentralparkboathouse.com | Upper West Side

    Pizzeria Perfecto: My go-to Italian delivery spot, mostly because the portions are huge and they send free salad and bread with your order.
    Good for: delivery
    $$ | www.perfectopizzany.com | Upper West Side

    Levain’s: Two words: Giant. Cookies.
    Good for: sugar overdose
    $ | www.levainbakery.com | Upper West Side

    Momofuku Milk Bar: I met Christina Tosi at a Random House event, and not only is she the coolest, she’s a sweets genius. Everything at this bakery is amazing, from the compost cookies to crack pie to cereal-infused milk.
    Good for: sweets you can’t get anywhere else
    $ | milkbarstore.com | Upper West Side

    Earl’s Beer and Cheese: Beer + cheese, what’s not to like? This small little place has a woodsy theme and serves up all your cheesy faves – gourmet mac and cheese or gooey grilled cheeses. Wash it down with one of the craft beers on tap.
    Good for: hanging with friends, cheese addicts
    $$ | www.earlsny.com | Upper East Side

    Good Enough to Eat: The name is an undersell for one of the most appetizing eateries on the Upper West. It’s not just good enough to eat, the homey menu is good enough that you won’t mind standing in line for 45 mins in the winter to get a brunch table.
    Good for: brunch, friend dates
    $$ | goodenoughtoeat.com | Upper West Side

    Hampton Chutney Co.: It’s a bit pricey but the dosas are huge and delicious. The restaurant gets crowded so it’s best to take this to-go.
    Good for: lunch on the go
    $$ | www.hamptonchutney.com | Upper West Side

    Jacob’s Pickles: This place feels more like Brooklyn than the UWS, with a hipster-meets-the South vibe. The food is raveworthy but my favorite part is the creative cocktail menu – both the mixtures and the names.
    Good for: dates and friend dates, small group dinners
    $$$ | www.jacobspickles.com | Upper West Side

    Land Thai: Always our go-to Thai delivery spot. I think my apartment alone kept this place in business, though I’ve never set foot inside.
    Good for: delivery
    $$ | landthaikitchen.com | Upper West Side

    ‘wichcraft: There are plenty of these around town, but the Lincoln Center location was my favorite. A huge wall of plants makes the atrium the perfect place to work remotely.
    Good for: lunch and work
    $ | wichcraftnyc.com | Upper West Side

    Midtown (Columbus Circle to Chelsea)

    2 Bros. Pizza: Ok it’s not the best — in fact you can get far better pizza all over town — but a dollar slice does the trick when you’re hungry, on the go, and totally broke from your absurd New York rent.
    Good for: cheap eats
    $ | www.2brospizza.com | Midtown West

    Barbounia: Sure, you can find boozy brunch spots where the drinks are included, whereas this place charges an extra $20 or so to keep the mimosas flowing. But the large space, pseudo-but-not-too-sceney crowd, and the yummy food make this place worth the extra charge.
    Good for: group brunch
    $$$ | barbounia.com | Gramercy

    Bar Baresco: Coupled with Il Bastardo next door, this place makes boozy brunch even more of a party than it usually is. Don’t come here if you’re hungover or don’t like dance clubs.
    Good for: aggressive brunch
    $$$ | nymag.com/listings/bar/bar-baresco | Chelsea

    Blockheads: I haven’t met a New Yorker who doesn’t like Blockheads. The drinks are strong, the portions are large, and the Midtown West location has a large outdoor seating area.
    Good for: group meals, friend dates
    $ | www.blockheads.com | Midtown West

    Blue Smoke: This was one of the first restaurant to break my picky eater shell. BBQ chips, bacon, and blue cheese dip were three things I never would’ve touched before coming here and falling in love with the dish. The BBQ here is rivaled only by its awesome cocktail lineup: warning, blood orange margaritas go down a little too easy.
    Good for: work functions, group dinners, parents, Southern cravings
    $$$ | bluesmoke.com | Gramercy

    Bouchon Bakery: The macaroons stand out but go for the giant, amazing peanut butter cookies instead. I’m not even a huge peanut butter person and I dream about these.
    Good for: dessert, gifts
    $ | bouchonbakery.com | Columbus Circle

    El Centro: Our go-to Mexican spot from work; one whole wall of this colorful cantina is covered in milagros, those little aluminum figurines of animals, suns, skulls, etc.
    Good for: friend dates, lunch, work get-togethers
    $$ | www.elcentro-nyc.com | Hell’s Kitchen

    The Cottage: If you want a lot of Chinese food, and a lot of free wine, and you don’t mind getting an ulcer from said free, cheap sugary wine, then Cottage is your spot. The starting point of many New York blackouts.
    Good for: group dinner, getting sloshed
    $$ | www.thecottagenewyork.com | Union Square

    Craft: Full disclosure: when I ate here it was an epic 8-course wine dinner served by Tom Colicchio himself (with fellow chef Neil Perry). Sometimes Often being a travel editor is pretty nice. Anyways, even when you’re not getting wined and dined by celebs this place is a sure bet for simple, fresh, and modern fare, and the cozy-but-cool decor rounds out the dining experience perfectly.
    Good for: dates, work functions, friend dins, parents in town
    $$$$ | www.craftrestaurantsinc.com/craft-new-york | Flatiron

    Del Posto: I’m a big Batali fan, and while I’m partial to Otto for the price, Del Posto’s service, food, and classic hotel-style atmosphere make it pretty unforgettable.
    Good for: special occasions
    $$$$ | www.delposto.com | Chelsea

    Le Pain Quotidien: For those of you who live most places, this chain isn’t anything exotic. For those of you who live in places like, I dunno, Minnesota, you should check out the tartines here. Also, don’t leave without trying the bread with Belgian spreads. It’ll make you forget all about Nutella. There are a ton of locations around the city.
    Good for: lunch, work outings
    $$ | www.lepainquotidien.us | Midtown West

    Penelope’s: Homey dishes are served in a cutesy cafe that reminds me of a garden shop; a refreshing escape from the surrounding Brooks Brothers/Brother Jimmy’s world of Murray Hill. Brunch lines are long so come for lunch or dinner — the food’s just as good!
    Good for: girls’ din, dates, mom visits, brunch
    $$ | www.penelopenyc.com | Murray Hill 

    Per Se: This is just on my list because I was fortunate to eat here for free. Sure it’s perennially one of the city’s top restos, but if you ask me there wasn’t enough charm to warrant a $600+ price tag. If money’s not an issue the food and service are deserving of their praise and you shouldn’t have a disappointing meal. I’d just personally rather put that money towards a flight to France to eat at a local hole in the wall.
    Good for: rich people, food snobs
    $$$$$ (deserves its own category) | www.perseny.com | Columbus Circle

    Rosa Mexicano: Yeah ok, it’s a chain. But the Union Square location is big, bold, and serves killer margaritas.
    Good for: happy hour, girls’ din
    $$$ | www.rosamexicano.com/newyorkcity/unionsquare | Union Square

    Shake Shack: They’re all over the city now, and even have spread farther afield, but the original in Madison Square Park is still the best. The line may take your entire lunch break, but eating your fries, burger, and shake in on a bench in the park beats sitting indoors at the other restaurants.
    Good for: getting fat, friend dates
    $ | www.shakeshack.com | Flatiron

    Tick Tock Diner: Tick Tock’s larger than your typical corner diner, and it’s near Penn Station, making it a good place to wait for a bus or train if you’ve got time to kill.
    Good for: late-night food, travelers
    $ | ticktockdinerny.com | Midtown West

    Westville: Fresh, good food that feels home cooked (maybe because the restaurant’s so small you feel like you’re in someone’s apt). It’s the type of atmosphere where menus are written in chalk on the wall and things are erased or crossed out if they run out.
    Good for: brunch, friend dates, dates
    $$ | www.westvillenyc.com | Chelsea

    Wildwood BBQ: Many friends have called these the best wings in New York City, and while I still have a few other spots to try I haven’t yet found  reason to argue. Wings are HUGE, and there are 50+ choices of beer.
    Good for: sports, wings, group dinner, more wings
    $$ | www.wildwoodbbq.com | Gramercy

    Xai Xai: To me, one of the best things about NYC’s dining scene isn’t the ethnic food, it’s that you can find every food. Name a country and you’ll likely find at least one bar or restaurant dedicated to it, which is great for world travelers who want a little taste of nostalgia from past trips. This South African wine bar did just that for me. You can’t order kudu, but you can get ostrich.
    Good for: dates, travelers, girls’ din
    $$ | www.xaixaiwinebar.com | Hell’s Kitchen

    Downtown (Below 14th St.)

    16 Handles: Now self-serve multi-tap Fro-Yo joints are all the range, but as far as I’m aware this was one of the, if not the first of its kind in NYC.
    Good for: friend dates
    $ | 16handles.com | East Village

    Adrienne’s Pizza Bar: It’s not your traditional New York slice, but the thin-crust square pizzas here are some of my favorite in the city.
    Good for: delivery, work lunch, friend dates
    $$ | Adrienne’s on NY Mag | Financial District

    A.O.C.: This West Village spot is about 3 times the size of its surrounding cafes and bistros. Nonetheless it maintains a classic Parisian vibe, without making you sit on top of your neighbors.
    Good for: girls’ din, brunch
    $$$ | aocnyc.com | West Village

    Baked By Melissa: Smaller is better at this bakery — the bite-size mini cupcakes are great for indecisive eaters. You don’t have to choose between tie-dye, mint-chip, s’mores or the flavors of the week — just try one of everything.
    Good for: dessert
    $ | www.bakedbymelissa.com | Union Square

    Bar Pitti: This was a favorite New York spot before I even moved here. The casual sister to Da Silvano, Italian reigns supreme here. The outdoor seating is one of the best spots downtown for people watching.
    Good for: dates, girls’ dins, small groups
    $$ | Bar Pitti on Google+ | West Village

    Buvette: One word: adorable. This tiny French cafe has a itsy garden patio, cute and classy decor, and a surprisingly robust wine list to round out the menu.
    Good for: girls’ din, dates, brunch, coffee break
    $$ | www.ilovebuvette.com | West Village

    Cafe Orlin: There’s a lot of crap on St. Marks, so this eatery is a diamond in the rough. It’s a big brunch spot, but I usually opted for dinner time, when it was less crowded but just as good.
    Good for: friend dins, dates
    $$ | www.cafeorlin.com | East Village

    Cherin Sushi: My go-to BYOB restaurant in the city. They always seem to have room, they can accomodate big groups, they let you bring whatever you want to drink, and the sushi is… well it’s completely decent.
    Good for: groups, BYOB
    $$ | cherinsushiny.com | East Village

    Corner Bistro: This is the best burger in New York for many reasons. 1. It’s delicious. 2. It’s cheap. Like really cheap. 3. It’s accompanied by really cheap beer and really good fries.
    Good for: friend dates, visitors
    $ | www.cornerbistrony.com | West Village

    Eatpisode: Unlike most downtown BYOs, which are holes in the wall, this Thai spot actually has a pretty trendy vibe, which makes it a great spot to bring out of town visitors.
    Good for: groups, girls’ din, BYOB
    $$ | Eatpisode on Google+ | Lower East Side

    Essex: Big-time brunch spot — everyone and their hipster brother thinks so, so be prepared to wait in line.
    Good for: groups, brunch, girls’ din
    $$ | www.essexnyc.com | Lower East Side

    Financier Patisserie: The name sums it up; this upscale pastry shop is befitting of its flagship Financial District location. Pre-made sandwiches and salads are a great bet for lunch.
    Good for: business meetings, lunch on the go, sweets
    $$ | www.financierpastries.com | Financial District

    Freemans: With an entry tucked off the street, this place is sort of like a hipster hunting lodge. Brunch is a big deal here.
    Good for: brunch, dates, friend dins
    $$$ | www.freemansrestaurant.com | Lower East Side

    Magnolia Bakery: People love to hate on Magnolia but the line that still forms outside like 10 years after its Sex and the City debut speaks for itself. Yes, the cake’s a little dry; sure, there are better cupcakes, but that buttercream frosting… just wow.
    Good for: dessert
    $ | www.magnoliabakery.com | West Village

    La Mela: Large portions, lots of rooms, and a reliably friendly staff made this my go-to Little Italy spot for big group dinners.
    Good for: groups
    $$$ | www.lamelarestaurant.com | Little Italy

    Morandi: Eating in this trattoria feels like you’re dining in a Tuscan wine cellar.
    Good for: dates, girls’ din, parents
    $$$ | www.morandiny.com | West Village

    Numero 28 Pizzeria: A generic yellow awning makes this look like just another pizza joint, but it’s got a full roster of Italian winners and the price is great for the location.
    Good for: group dins, friend dates
    $$ | numero28.com | West Village

    Otto: Everything about this restaurant is awesome: the 500-ish bottle wine list, the vintage train station table notifier, the quality of the food and service, and the price for the whole experience.
    Good for: dates, groups, friend dins, parents visiting
    $$ | www.ottopizzeria.com | Greenwich Village

    Petit Abeille: Belgian fare is the focus at this vintage restaurant with blue and white checkered table-cloths. Everything’s home-style and everything’s good. Come for brunch if you like waffles.
    Good for: dates, groups, brunch, parents
    $$ | www.petiteabeille.com | West Village

    Piadina: A picturesque ivy-shrouded facade, swinging hand-painted sign, and bicycle parked outside make it impossible to walk past this eatery and not want to go inside. Rustic brick and wood decor (plus some slightly out of place modern art) continues the Italian charm inside.
    Good for: dates
    $$ | www.piadinanyc.com | West Village

    Pommes Frites: Get a pouch of Belgian fries with your choice from about 30 sauces. There’s a reason it’s a popular post-bar stop.
    Good for: take-out
    $ | www.pommesfrites.ws | East Village

    Russ and Daughters: Even if you like fish, the stench inside this old-school appetizer shop is overpowering. I don’t like fish, and could only bear to be inside for about a minute. Just long enough to order a bagel and cream cheese — one of my favorites in the city.
    Good for: bagels
    $ | www.russanddaughters.com | Lower East Side

    Schiller’s Liquor Bar: A white brick exterior, eclectic menu, and vintage vibe make Schiller’s a LES standbye.
    Good for: friend dins, brunch
    $$$ | www.schillersny.com | Lower East Side

    S’mac: A restaurant devoted to mac ‘n cheese. Nuff said.
    Good for: delivery, friend din
    $ | www.smacnyc.com | East Village

    The Smith: The modern American food and classy-hip wood and tile decor are a reliably solid bet. The price has stayed right too, despite the constant crowds.
    Good for: friend dins, brunch
    $$$ | www.thesmithnyc.com | East Village

    Sugar Sweet Sunshine: These cupcakes are similar to the ones at Magnolia, but there are more varieties and they’re a little cheaper.
    Good for: dessert
    $ | www.sugarsweetsunshine.com | Lower East Side

    Sunburnt Cow: Aussies, boozy brunch, and more Aussies. Really this place can do no wrong. Drinking (a lot) is why most people come, but the food is also really good, and the Australian staff, Outback-influenced decor, and surfing on every tv pay homage to Down Under.
    Good for: groups, brunch, friend dins
    $$ | Sunburnt Cow on Google+ | East Village

    Supper: Yet another cutesy and rustic Italian osteria, this one is good for delivery but better to dine in-house.
    Good for: dates, girls’ din
    $$ | supperrestaurant.com | East Village

    Tartine: Good luck getting a table here for brunch. That’s because it’s the best of all worlds: boozy brunch, BYOB, and a tiny Pinterest-worthy West Village space. I had luck on holiday weekends, but either way it’s worth a wait.
    Good for: girls’ din, brunch
    $$$ | Tartine on Google+ | West Village

    Tree: The garden patio at this small eatery is an oasis in the middle of the grungy East Village. The food was good, but the setting stole the show.
    Good for: dates, girls’ dins, special events
    $$$ | treebistro.com | East Village

    Villa Mosconi: Inside it looks like a misplaced Little Italy joint, but this restaurant’s large 4-season glass-roofed garden sets it apart.
    Good for: groups, friend dins, dates
    $$$ | www.villamosconi.com | Greenwich Village

    Yerba Buena: For brunch, this place goes beyond the typical mimosas-and-bloodys menu and serves up high-end cocktails with the meal. The Latin American menu continues through dinner, and there are a few good outside tables.
    Good for: brunch, friend dins
    $$$ | ybnyc.com | West Village

    Yuca Bar: You’ll have to wait, but the sangria, tapas, and lively atmosphere make even an hour wait worthwhile.
    Good for: girls’ din, groups
    $$$ | yucabarnyc.com | East Village

  • Favorite Bars in New York

    Favorite Bars in New York

    There are plenty of things to do in New York, but there’s one thing New Yorkers do with more regularity than anything else: drink. No one really has room to host get-togethers in their apartments, so bars become the de-facto social scene. Plus if you live in New York, you’re inevitably stressed, overworked, overcrowded, and in need of a strong one, and the bars stay open so late you can come home when the sun rises. And if you’re visiting, well then you’ve just given your New Yorker friends yet another excuse for Sunday Funday (as if they need excuses).

    Since a good portion of my six years in New York were spent in bars, I owe it to the city and my liver to pay tribute to those spots. Here’s a list, though it’s by no means comprehensive (sorry Brooklyn) of some of my favorite NYC watering holes.

    Uptown (Upper East and West)

    Bemelmans Bar
    Carlyle Hotel Website | Upper East Side
    Unobtrusive elegance pairs with playful wall illustrations by the bar’s namesake, the creator of Madeline, at the Carlyle Hotel bar.

    Boat Basin
    www.boatbasincafe.com | Upper West Side
    Outdoor riverside bar and grill overlooking the Hudson.

    Earl’s Beer and Cheese
    www.earlsny.com | Upper East Side
    Beer, paired with cheesy things. Nothing to complain about here.

    Firehouse
    www.firehousenyc.com | Upper West Side
    This sports bar sits away from the 80s/Amsterdam stretch of college-saturated bars.

    McAleer’s
    mcaleerspub.com | Upper West Side
    What sets this pub apart is the drink specials: order 2 pitchers of beer, get free wings. (Technically you can choose a free order of nachos, but do not do this. The nachos are awful. The wings are delicious.)

    Prohibition
    prohibition.net | Upper West Side
    Nightly cover bands in a large candle-lit contemporary bar.

    Tangled Vine
    www.tangledvinebar.com | Upper West Side
    Amid a stretch of college frat bars, this cozy wine bar breaks away from the early 20s crowd.

    Tarallucci e Vino
    taralluccievino.net | Upper West Side
    A modern Italian ambiance puts the focus on the wine at this small but airy bar.

    Midtown (Columbus Circle to Chelsea)

    123 Burger Shot Beer
    www.123burgershotbeer.com | Hell’s Kitchen
    You want cheap, come here. $1 sliders, $2 shots, $3 beers. Gets everyone good and sloppy quickly.

    Bathtub Gin
    bathtubginnyc.com | Chelsea
    A speakeasy that doubles as a bakery by day, and a Roaring 20s-style cocktail hangout at night. Sit in the iron bathtubs for the full experience.

    Bounce
    www.bounceny.com | Chelsea
    Day-drinking at its most aggressive. Combine about 40 TVs, hordes of drunk football fans, and tables to dance on and you’ve got Bounce.

    ‘Disiac
    www.disiacloungenyc.com | Hell’s Kitchen
    Great happy hour spot on nice days, there’s a tiny Bohemian-tinged garden in the back.

    Frying Pan
    www.fryingpan.com | Chelsea
    A few sunken junker ships were dredged off the bottom of the Chesapeake Bay and now serve as a big floating bar complex. Expect long lines on nice decent days.

    Japas
    Midtown West
    Happy hour at its finest: half-priced drinks and karaoke. It’s also possibly the darkest and dingiest bar in Midtown.

    The Kimberly
    www.kimberlyhotel.com | Midtown East
    There are a lot of overrated and overpriced rooftop bars in NYC, but this hotel’s retractable roofed upper level deck bar is one of the better bets, with a Instagram-inducing view and some pretty awesome cocktails.

    King Cole Bar
    www.kingcolebar.com | Midtown East
    A classic, classy meeting spot, the St. Regis bar is known for its mural and (albeit disputed) claim on the Bloody Mary.

    Maritime Hotel
    www.themaritimehotel.com | Chelsea
    It can be a bit sceney, but the nautical-themed outdoor seating and cabanas here are different from everything else in the hood.

    McGee’s
    www.mcgeespub.com | Midtown West
    This neighborhood Irish pub is the model for McLaren’s in How I Met Your Mother. They sometimes have screenings and trivia nights centered around the show.

    Pony Bar
    theponybar.com | Hell’s Kitchen
    It’s a hike out on 10th Ave., but this all-American bar serves all American craft beers.

    Standard Biergarden
    Standard Hotel Website | Chelsea
    A perfect blend of Meatpacking trendy and casual beer garden. Plus it’s covered but still open air, so rainy beer days are on the menu.

    Stone Rose
    gerberbars.com/stone-rose-ny | Midtown West
    In the vein of some of the Time Warner restaurants, this upscale wine bar toes the line between swanky happy hour hotspot and chic date destination.

    Valhalla
    valhallabarnyc.com | Hell’s Kitchen
    A beer lover’s happy hour spot, with 50 taps and almost 60 bottles to choose from.

    Downtown (Below 14th St.)

    6th Ward
    www.thesixthward.com | Lower East Side
    The bar itself is a little sleepy, but there’s a really nice sized outdoor beer garden in the back, were you can enjoy bottomless brunch.

    Amity Hall
    www.amityhallnyc.com | Greenwich Village
    Chill spot to watch football on Sundays, fun place for drinking and dancing on weekends.

    Anfora
    www.anforanyc.com | West Village
    Cozy tables and a good wine list make this a primo date spot.

    Aria Wine Bar
    Aria on Google+ | West Village
    A quiet, rustic neighborhood place, it’s an idea spot to while away an afternoon with a bottle of wine.

    Art Bar
    www.artbar.com | West Village
    A funky, vintage vibe in the back room is a nice option in a stretch of few bars.

    Automatic Slims
    Autos on Google+ | West Village
    Fratty dance party in a crowded sliver of a bar.

    Back Fence
    www.thebackfenceonline.com | Greenwich Village
    Dive bar with live nightly cover bands. Apparently it closed right after I moved but I’ll keep it on my list for posterity.

    Bar None*
    www.barnonenyc.com | East Village
    *Only on Sundays, when this is the Minnesota Vikings bar! Other nights it’s a gross place where underage kids come to drink.

    Blind Tiger Ale House
    www.blindtigeralehouse.com | West Village
    A longtime standout on the NYC beer scene, this place is king of craft.

    Bowery Electric
    www.theboweryelectric.com | Bowery
    Fratty dance party in a large 2-level bar with an elevated stage/dance floor.

    Corkbuzz
    www.corkbuzz.com | Union Square
    You can take wine classes here, but the bar itself is a perfect specimen of trendy-but-not-too-trendy New York wine bar.

    Crocodile Lounge
    www.crocodileloungenyc.com | East Village
    Free pizza. With every drink. Plus there’s really really intense trivia on Wednesdays.

    Duplex
    www.theduplex.com | West Village
    Cabaret bar that attracts Broadway-ers on their days off.

    Fat Cat
    www.fatcatmusic.org | West Village
    A rare cavernous subterranean jazz club, games hall, and bar, this place has it all, from ping pong to Scrabble. Worth the small cover.

    Hudson Clearwater
    www.hudsonclearwater.com | West Village
    You have to know where to go, because the door is hidden off a side street. You enter through a small garden and to find a rustic and romantic bar revealed inside.

    Gottino
    ilmiogottino.com | West Village
    A long, thin, softly lit bar, this place charms with its exposed brick walls and chalkboard menus.

    Karaoke Boho
    www.karaokeboho.com | Lower East Side
    Unlike many of its cohorts, this karaoke spot keeps its lists pretty current, so you can sing hot jamz in addition to oldies and goodies.

    Keg 229
    www.binno220.com/keg-home.aspx | South Street Seaport
    Have to keep this neighborhoody beer bar on the list, but unfortunately its doors are still closed from Hurricane Sandy.

    Lillies
    www.lilliesnyc.com | Union Square
    While always busy, this Victorian bar flies under the radar of most people who don’t know the neighborhood, probably thanks to its side street location. The pressed tin ceiling is my favorite.

    Lederhosen
    www.lederhosennyc.com | West Village
    Very large beers pair with a very German menu in this no-frills beer hall room.

    McSorely’s
    McSorely’s on Google+ | East Village
    The oldest bar in the city, and one of the best places to take visitors. Beer is served be the pair of glasses.

    Puck Fair
    www.puckfairbar.com | SoHo
    Old reliable, this place is all at once busy pub, private nook, dance floor space, and private party balcony.

    Spitzer’s Corner
    www.spitzerscorner.com | Lower East Side
    One of the early cool wood-lined crafty beer bars in the area, the name has seen its fair share of relevance.

    Spring Lounge
    thespringlounge.com | SoHo
    The walls are lined with sharks and John Mayer’s here all the time (apparently he lives up stairs). Otherwise it’s good early, douchy later.

    Sunburnt Cow
    Sunburnt Cow on Google+ | East Village
    Aussies like booze, so get ready to drink — especially if you come for the bottomless brunch.

    Swine
    swinenyc.com | West Village
    It’s a bit removed from the general West Village foot traffic, but this homey spot combines casual craftiness upstairs with a game-driven laid-back downstairs.

    Tortilla Flats
    www.tortillaflatsnyc.com | West Village
    There’s so much tinsel and PBR signage that you can’t see the ceilings in this Mexican restaurant. Many blackouts begin here, then stumble up the street to Automatic Slims.

    Tropical 128
    tropical128.com | Little Italy
    Sort of like the Rainforest Cafe meets bar on a Tiki holiday. Tropical kitsch is cool here.

    Ulysses Folk House
    www.ulyssesfolkhouse.com | Financial District
    Anchoring cobbled Stone Street is this traditional Irish pub. Come summer tables explode into the alley creating a makeshift beer hall. Plus it’s owned by a Georgetown alum, so has gotta be good.

    Wilfie & Nell
    wilfieandnell.com | West Village
    Choose from nook-like seating areas or large communal tables — or don’t sit because on weekend’s it’s packed. But I was randomly here once for a 30 Rock cast birthday party, which to me gives this bar celeb status.

    Zum Schneider
    www.zumschneider.com | East Village
    The best part of this German bar isn’t the huge beers, it’s the odd indoor tree that I always thought was real but actually is just part of the decor. I guess that means the beers are strong…

    Queens (What?!)

    Bohemian Beer Garden
    www.bohemianhall.com | Astoria
    Yes it’s in Queens, and yes it’s worth the hike. This large beer garden delivers on drinks, food, live music, and community vibe. It’s the one and only reason many Manhattanites have been to this borough.

  • Wedding Travel: Love It or Leave It?

    Wedding Travel: Love It or Leave It?

     

     

    Published on July 12, 2012 on Travora.com || I don’t disagree with Vince Vaughn’s party-crashing alter ego when he says that wedding season is better than Christmas—the parties, the reunions, and the electric sense of excitement surrounding friends’ and family members’ nuptials are some of the things I look forward to most each summer.

    But I live in New York City, the most expensive place to tie the knot (the average Manhattan wedding cost $65,824 in 2011), so most couples I know chose to head out of town to greener, and cheaper, pastures for their big day. And that means if I want to celebrate with them, I have to hit the road, too. It makes no difference if the locale is exotic or mundane; if it requires me to travel, it’s a destination wedding.

    Destination weddings are a big commitment—for the couple promising their lives to one another, sure, but also for guests who have to make financial and social decisions about how and when to get to the festivities.

    Friday weddings are growing in popularity, which means you have to take time off from work just to attend the ceremony. Depending on transportation options and event timing, Friday weddings sometimes require two vacation days. If you have multiple weddings to attend, you’d better hope you have a cool boss.

    Other couples choose long weekends and holidays for their weddings, such as New Year’s Eve, Memorial Day or Labor Day. That limits days out of the office but can clash with other, non-wedding, plans. Does anyone really want to spend New Year’s Eve in a Holiday Inn in New Jersey?

    With rising fuel and airfare costs and limited hotel choices in some areas, you can easily shell out more than $1,000 each time a friend gets hitched. If you have multiple weddings over the course of a summer, you may have to kiss any personal vacation plans goodbye and say “I do” to banquet halls and the Isley Brothers’ “Shout.”

    Still, there’s an upside. It’s easy to depict weddings as vacation-account drainers (both financially and in days out of the office), but these destination nuptials can be the perfect excuse for a mini-break—whatever the locale.

    Unless you’re part of the wedding party, you’re likely to have some free time to check out your destination. Many guests don’t prepare for wedding travel as thoroughly as they would for a personal vacation, but with a minimum of leg work, you can pinpoint a sight or neighborhood you’d like to see and get some exploring done. At a wedding in Philadelphia, for example, some friends and I enjoyed a leisurely brunch at Parc and a walk around Rittenhouse Square before we had to get ready for the evening ceremony.

    Another option is to consider what else is nearby. I plan on attending a wedding this summer in Detroit—a Friday wedding—which has inspired a weekend tour of the Midwest: I’ll celebrate my friends’ marriage that evening, continue on to Chicago to visit family the next day, then fly back to New York from there.

    Some of my favorite wedding travel has been when the journey was part of the adventure. Instead of flying to a ceremony in Asheville, NC, my date and I decided to plan a road trip. We meandered along the Blue Ridge Parkway, camping and hiking along the way. It was the first time either of us had been there, and taking the slow route introduced us to the area in ways we would have missed out on had we flown in and out.

    As summer progresses it’s easy to get wrapped up in the drama and stress of coordinating wedding trips. But don’t be a guestzilla: instead of focusing on the sacrifices you’re making, have some fun. With a little planning and creativity you can have your travel wedding cake and eat it too.