Jess Moss Travel

Category: My Trips

  • What to Do with 5 Days in Dubrovnik

    What to Do with 5 Days in Dubrovnik

    I traveled to Dubrovnik for 5 days in July 2017. We used it as a base to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site walled city, track down Game of Thrones filming locations (it’s Kings Landing!), and take a handful of day trips, including to Montenegro and the island of Mljet.

    How to Get to Dubrovnik

    The main purpose of my trip was a wedding in Greece after the Dubrovnik leg. Turns out travel between Greece and Croatia is a lot tougher than I expected. There aren’t direct air connections daily, and if you’re hoping to travel by boat, be forewarned it takes like 26 hours via ferry and goes through Italy.

    Without my specific itinerary complication though, getting to Dubrovnik is pretty easy. There are plenty of connecting flights from other cities in Europe. There are ferries from other Croatian islands, like Split and Hvar. The airport is about 30 minutes from the city — a pretty drive along the coast. You can take the bus or a taxi cost 35-45 euros.

    Where to Stay in Dubrovnik

    I stayed in the heart of the Old City, in a wonderful studio apartment Airbnb. (GoT fans, it was right at the base of Ceresi’s Shame Stairs.) There are a ton of great Airbnbs in the Old City — just be prepared to walk up a lot of stairs (inside and on the side streets leading up to the houses). Most of the hotels themselves are outside the city.

    So, should you stay in Dubrovnik’s Old City or outside the walls? It kinda depends. Staying in the Old City is super convenient — you can walk home from the bars and restaurants at night, and you can pop home during the day for a bathroom or to cool down in a/c. But … it is CROWDED in there. Like middle-of-Times Square crowded. This made it pretty overwhelming any time we stepped out the door.

    If you aren’t into crowds, consider staying outside the city. I heard great things about the Hotel Excelsior, which is a short walk from the city walls. If you have money to spend and want to relax, the Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel had incredible views and looked amazing. Oh, and there’s also a hotel with a cave bar.

    What to Do in Dubrovnik

    Arrival Night

    After about 24 hours of travel, we arrived to the city around 9 pm. Entering the Old City through the Pile Gate (pronounced Pila) is probably the coolest entrance to a city I’ve ever made. You cross a drawbridge and it feels like you’re entering a castle. We made it out for dinner and a few drinks, then crashed at our Airbnb.

    Gradska Kavana Arsenal: A great place for dinner on one of the Old City’s main squares. We sat outside and sipped Croatian wine from Istria. I didn’t know it at the time, but it’s run by one of the city’s most prominent restaurant groups (that also runs Dubravka, Panorama, etc.).

    Gusto Giusto: Dubrovnik is full of these little hole-in-the-wall restaurant/bars on side streets. This one had a few small tables outside, and some people were just sitting on the steps. Small but interesting selection of local beers and wine, plus some cocktails that I didn’t try.

    Dubrovnik city walls
    Dubrovnik city walls

    Day 1

    We covered a lot of touristing ground today, and it was all fantastic. Knocked off three of the top things to do in Dubrovnik (walls, kayaking, Mt. Srd).

    City Walls: You can climb up onto the top of Dubrovnik’s walls and do a full loop around the city. It’s fantastic — the views are amazing and there are little cafes and bars to get refreshments along the way.

    The secret to doing the walls is to do it early —get up there at 8 am and be done by 10 — or late, around sunset time. Since this is probably the #1 thing to do in Dubrovnik, the walls get very crowded during the day. Plus there’s not a ton of shade so you’ll roast if you go midday. Ticket costs 150 kuna (at this writing Dubrovnik isn’t on the Euro), and there’s no reentry. To do the full loop takes about 1.5-2 hours.

    Trattoria Tezoro: Went here for breakfast. To be honest, all breakfasts were pretty much the same: you choose from American, French, Italian, etc. and then get some combo of OJ, coffee, sliced meat and cheese. 

    Sea Kayaking with Dubrovnik Walks: On a hot summer day sea kayaking tours are the best way to stay cool. This operator runs 7-km trips from right outside the city walls. You paddle around Lokrum Island and then stop at a beach in a cave. You can book in advance, though we reserved online about an hour before the trip.

    Mt. Srd cable car: For some of the best views of Dubrovnik, take the cable car to the top of Mt. Srd (or hike, if you’re up for a climb). There’s a museum and a restaurant at the top. Tip: Buy your tickets online beforehand (cost is about $22), then skip the line when you get to the cable car.

    Panorama: The restaurant at the top of Mt. Srd is the best meal with a view you’ll have in Dubrovnik. If you want to sit right on the edge for a sunset dinner you’ll have to make reservations a year or more in advance. But you can just walk in and get a non-edge seat (and if you stay past sunset you might be able to move seats closer).

    Panorama Restaurant
    Panorama Restaurant

    Day 2

    Dubravka: This restaurant right outside Pile gate is popular among locals and tourists. It has a great breezy patio overlooking the city walls. Good for any meal, and a little cheaper than the restaurants inside the walls.

    City tour: We joined a local tour guide from the Dubrovnik visitors’ bureau. Learned some interesting things:

    • The Franciscan pharmacy is one of the oldest in Europe — you can buy rose water here
    • Earthquakes are responsible for the varied architectural styles, while the war in the 1990s destroyed the city’s roofs, which is why they all look new
    • Friday is the city’s busiest day
    • Some restaurants to check out:
      • Azur (Mediterranean food with an Asian twist)
      • Prieko (street full of restaurants)
      • Mishta (vegetarian food)
      • Posaj (outside the city, local food)
      • Dolce Vita (ice cream)

    Restaurant Orsan: To escape the Old City crowds we headed over to Lapad, an easy cab ride away. Lunch at this harborside restaurant was relaxing, delicious and a bit cheaper than the tourist center prices.

    Lapad coastal trail: From nearby Restaurant Orsan, a quiet walking path meanders along the coast, past little piers and beaches. As it rounds the Lapad peninsula there are larger techno-bumping beach clubs and some resorts.

    Buza Bar: My favorite thing in Dubrovnik. Buza literally means “hole in the wall,” and these bars (there are two) sit on the rocks just outside the city walls. The first Buza is a bit more commercial — there are seats and a full bar setup. The second is more makeshift, but it is better for swimming. You can also BYOB to both of these spots.

    Lajk: This family run restaurant had outside tables on the Prieko street. Good food, local wines.

    Buza Bar
    Buza Bar

    Day 3

    Day trip to Montenegro: We hired a driver to take us across the border to Montenegro for a daytrip.

    More info about that on this blog post!

    Dubravka: Not just a breakfast spot — great for a big group dinner.

    Troubadour Jazz Cafe: Small bar with live music at night. Performers play outside so you can sit at the neighboring bars on the square if seats fill up.

    Perast Montenegro
    Perast, Montenegro

    Day 4

    Day trip to Mljet: We hopped a ferry to this large island with a national park about 1.5 hours away from Dubrovnik. Left at around 9 am and returned by around 6:30.

    More info about that day trip on this blog post!

    Restaurant Kopun: Tucked in a quiet square in front of the Jesuit Church, this restaurant specializes in castrated chicken (kopun). But there are plenty of other options on the menu too, and in tough-to-get-a-table Dubrovnik, it was a great option for walk-in outdoor dining for a group.

    Mljet
    Mljet

    Day 5

    Our flight was leaving at around 4:30, so we only had a partial day. We weren’t sure about going to Lokrum — might be too much of a production — but it was such a peaceful escape from Dubrovnik and super easy to get to.

    Lokrum: The small island off Dubrovnik is a super easy, relaxing break from the hot crowded city streets. It’s about a 10 minute ferry ride over there. Once on the island, there are beaches, chaise lounges, walking trails through forests with peacocks roaming, and a few restaurants. GoT fans, there’s also an Iron Throne you can pose on, and an exhibit of various Dubrovnik filming locations.

    Iron Throne dubrovnik
    Iron Throne on Lokrum

    Random Stuff You Should Know about Dubrovnik

    • Game of Thrones stuff is EVERYWHERE. There are tours all over, kitschy souvenirs and T-shirts for sale all over, and two Iron Thrones (one in the Old City that you can sit on after purchasing something in the shop, and a free one on Lokrum)
    • Restaurants inside the city walls are pricey. As soon as you step outside (like, even right outside at Dubravka) the prices drop.
    • Just reiterating the crowds. Overtourism is definitely a problem here.
    • Tourism is the main industry here, so most people speak English.
    • February 3rd is the city’s #1 celebration: St. Blaise festival
    • Some local products to buy: rose water, coral jewelry, embroidered goods.
    • It’s hard to get into many of Dubrovnik’s popular restaurants at dinner. If there’s a spot you want to try, make reservations.
  • Why Mljet is the Perfect Island Daytrip from Dubrovnik

    Why Mljet is the Perfect Island Daytrip from Dubrovnik

    After a few days of fighting crowds in the busy streets of Dubrovnik, a trip to Mljet was a breath of fresh air and a welcome escape.

    Mljet is a large, lush island with a national park on its western end that has saltwater lakes, a meta island-on a lake-on an island, and some of the bluest water you’ll ever see. Daily boats from Dubrovnik make this an easy daytrip, though once you’re there the peace and quiet will likely tempt you to spend the night (and if you have the time, do it!).

    Getting to Mljet

    There are high-speed ferries to Mljet from Dubrovnik, Split and other islands. The trip from Dubrovnik takes about 1½ hours. If you’re heading to the national park, take the ferry from Dubrovnik to Polace, where you can pick up a bike, catch a shuttle, or walk about 25 minutes to the national park. Boats leave the city at 9:15 am and return at 4:55 pm (getting back around 6:30 pm).

    Coming from or going to another part of Croatia? The other Mljet port with easy access to the national park is Pomena, which has a bit more going on than Polace, including a hotel.

    If you’re going farther afield on the island, you’ll want to rent a car or use taxis, or you can rent bikes. If you’re just exploring the national park (and are up for a couple-mile walk), you can do it all by foot.

    Exploring Mljet National Park

    Occupying the western part of the island, this national park is a gem. You can buy an entry ticket (about 100 kn) at Polace when you get off the ferry, or at the park entrance about 30 minutes’ walk from port. Inside the park you’ll find well-marked trails and two unbelievably blue and swimmable saltwater lakes, one of which has an island with a monastery set in the middle of it. (You can take a little boat here for lunch and a dip.)

    Aside from boating and swimming, the park’s two lakes are home to some interesting creatures: coral, jellyfish, and shellfish — including mussels that can grow up to 2 feet long. The smaller lake, Malo Jezero, is warmer and shallower than the grand lake, Veliko Jezero, making it a popular swimming hole. The two lakes are connected by a bridge that you can swim under. 

    One Day on Mljet

    • 11:00 am: Arrive in Polace. Hit up the little grocery market for some water and snacks, then buy your park ticket at the little booth.
    • 12 pm: Get to the national park, explore the walking trails around Veliko Jezero.
    • 1 pm: Take a boat across the lake to St. Mary’s. Eat lunch and explore the monastery and island.
    • 2:30 pm: Boat to Malo Jezero for a swim in the smaller lake
    • 3:30 pm: Head back to Polace – you don’t want to miss the boat! Grab a drink at one of the harborside bars or restaurants before you board.
    • 4:30 pm: Board ferry back to Dubrovnik.
    • 6:35 pm: Arrive back in Dubrovnik in time for sunset!
    Mljet Croatia boats
    Boats moored near Polace on Mljet
    Mljet national park
    Veliko jezero, one of two saltwater lakes in Mljet National Park

     

    Mljet monastery
    Aboard the boat from the monastery on St. Mary’s Island, in the middle of Veliko Jezero
    Mljet monastery chapel
    Notes left by visitors to the chapel on St. Mary’s Island
    Mljet charter boat
    Boat for rent in Mljet National Park
    Mljet lake view
    Not a bad place for a rest!
    Velika Jezero Mljet
    Walking the lakeside path along Velika Jezero
    Mljet map
    Map of Mljet
  • What to Do with One Day in Seattle: Travel Guide

    What to Do with One Day in Seattle: Travel Guide

    Seattle was the second stop on my Canada-to-Mexico trip. I only had a short amount of time — 24 hours, to be exact — and it rained for some of it (duh), but I was still able to see a lot of the city. 

    How I Got Here

    Since I was coming from Vancouver, I took the scenic Amtrak Cascades train down from Canada. I wrote up some things you should know if you take that train here. I took the 6:30 train from Vancouver, which got me into Seattle’s King Street Station around 11 a.m.

    Where I Stayed

    I’m lucky to have a friend in Seattle, so I skipped the hotel and stayed with her.

    Day 1

    Pike Place Market: Tourist central, but when in Seattle you’ve gotta check it out. And despite the tourists and the crowds, it felt legit — like you’d totally buy the stuff here, rather than it being full of tacky souvenirs.

    Gum Wall: To one side of the market, this alley is pockmarked with chewed gum wads. The city actually removed it all recently because the gum was so heavy it was weighing down the buildings. But that didn’t discourage chewers, and the wall is back in action.

    Beecher’s Cheese: Seattle’s favorite cheesemonger is heaven for mac and cheese lovers like me. The cheese curds were pretty incredible, too. Worth the wait in line. 

    Original Starbucks: It’s a Starbucks with an old logo. And a really long line. I stopped for a pic, but I’m pretty sure the coffee inside is the same as all the other Starbucks you’ve ever had.

    Cloudburst Brewing: A new brewery that’s taking Seattle by storm. The brewers used to work for popular local brand Elysian but when that company was bought out by Anheuser-Busch, so they went out on their own and cook up a new type of beer every batch. The taproom is a casual and inviting industrial space.

    Gas Works Park: This park on Lake Union has giant rusted out gas tanks rising out of hte green grass. There’s also a covered pavilion with brightly painted iron gears, pipes and other machinery. Surrounding the park are a number of pretty houseboat communities and there’s a great skyline view of the city and Space Needle.

    Freemont Brewing: A short walk from Gasworks Park, this is one of the breweries to hang out at in Seattle. There’s a nice outdoor area that apparently gets packed on nice days (it wasn’t too crowded on this cloudy Saturday afternoon). Inside they have big bowls of free pretzels and apples that you can munch on with your beers.

    Stroup Brewing: Tucked in the Ballard neighborhood between residential houses, this little brewery has a funky beer garden patio and a local food truck parked outside. We got a growler to go on our way to Discovery Park. 

    Discovery Park: A massive green space with odd buildings reminiscent of Lost’s Darma Initiative, this park has a lot of nice walking trails and some great views of the Olympic Peninsula and mountains. It also has a bunny problem; apparently Seattleites? have been releasing their pet rabbits here and they’re reproducing like, well, rabbits. You’ll probably see them nibbling around the park. 

    Ballard Neighborhood: This used to be the salty seamen’s hangout; now it’s one of Seattle’s hipster hoods. Ballard Ave is lined with boutique bars and shops.

    Percy’s & Co.: An apothecary-themed spot, there are jars of cocktail concoctions and eyedroppers of drink elixirs on the back bar of the brick-walled bar. I told the bartender I was in the mood for a mule and she whipped up some mint-mule-champagne concoction that was amazing. 

    Sexton: Another really good cocktail spot, plus solid modern American food: think boar burgers, chicken pot pie, and a few types of mac and cheese. The cocktails here were good too, and there’s an outdoor back patio for when the weather cooperates. 

    Day 2

    Pioneer Square: Seattle’s historic heart, this square was overrun with film crews shooting the sequel of 50 Shades of Grey. (They asked, but I declined to be an extra…) It’s a nice space, but there are a lot of homeless people nearby — some were super friendly, others were pretty aggressive.

    Underground Tour: Seattle was originally built lower than it is now; to make up for the tides and sewer issues the city rebuilt itself a whole level higher after it burned down in the late 1800s. You can still go underground and see the old storefronts and sidewalks, plus a lot of crap that people threw down there. Speaking of crap, the word apparently comes from Crapper, the man who popularized the modern toilet, which played a big role in Seattle’s development. The tour cost $19 for about 75 minutes of Seattle history, underground exploring, and toilet jokes. 

  • What to Do with 2 Days in Chicago

    What to Do with 2 Days in Chicago

    In August I traveled to Chicago for 2 days. While much of it was spent in meetings, I was able to eat, drink, and see some of Chicago’s finest. Here’s what I did:

    How I Got There

    I snagged a great Wanna Get Away fare on Southwest Airlines. Flew DCA to Midway for $98 round-trip … and only booked it two weeks in advance. (Guess that’s what a Tuesday — Friday schedule gets you!)

    Where I Stayed

    JW Marriott Chicago: The hotel is about a 10-minute walk from Millennium Park, and is blocks from the Willis Tower. It’s a nice upscale city hotel. There’s a large lobby with a bar and lounge area (though it didn’t stay open all that late). It’s in the Loop, so surrounded by businessy spots like Starbucks and take-out lunch restaurants. Rooms were cool, clean, and have those wonderful Marriott beds.

    Chicago Bean

    Day 1

    The Bean: My favorite place to photograph in Chicago. I snuck a visit in before work and snapped some pics of the buildings and blue sky reflections.

    Tortas Frontera: From chef Rick Bayless, this Mexican quick-lunch spot serves hand-crafted sandwiches and a salad with lime-avocado dressing that I never would have ordered had it not been recommended by a colleague. Now I can’t wait to get back and order another one of those salads…

    City Winery Chicago Riverwalk: This whole Riverwalk district is brand new, with bars, restaurants, and more kayak rental shops than I’ve ever seen in a city. The winery was bursting with post-work happy hour-ers, and since you can’t take your drinks beyond a certain point, I just sat on the steps and watched the boats chug along the river a few feet away.

    Parlor Pizza Bar: Pizza in Chicago means one thing: deep dish. Except not at this West Loop hotspot, where Neapolitan pies are as creatively topped as they are named (check out the Cheesus, Mary & Joseph).

    RM Champagne: This West Loop champagne bar has a great outdoor patio. Twinkle lights, exposed brick, and 12 types of bubbly all help you forget the fact that you’re kind of drinking in an alley. (There’s also a large indoor space.)

    Three Dots and a Dash: My colleagues and I closed out the night at this underground tiki-style bar. It’s known for its cocktails, but I’m even more of a fan of the ceramic tropical mugs that the drinks come in.

    Wrigley Field

    Day 2

    Wrigley Rooftops: 3643 n. Sheffield: After a day of meetings we took a trolley from the Loop out to Wrigleyville for a Cubs game at the Wrigley Rooftops. New updates to Wrigley Field (a big jumbotron and more public space) has spoiled the view from some of the rooftop venues, but we could see everything but the deep outfield. The rooftops aren’t so much about the baseball, but more about the all-you-can-eat-and-drink deals. The menu included dogs, brats, and some ballpark sides, plus a good selection of wine and beer.

    Cindy’s Rooftop: The rooftop bar and restaurant at the Chicago Athletic Association has a prime view overlooking the Bean, Millennium Park, and Lake Michigan. The place has an industrial-chic style and a cocktail menu called the “Potions & Elixirs” list.

    Hangge Uppe: A go-to late night dance party bar, apparently any night of the week. Come here if you want to keep the party going until 4 a.m. Think college dive, not techo club.

     

  • 8 Days in Portugal

    8 Days in Portugal

    In late April/early May I took a family vacation to Portugal—a multigenerational trip for my grandma’s 80th birthday. Here are my (rough, unedited) notes on what I did:

    How I Got There

    United flight from Newark: it was a small plane for an overseas flight; just 3 and 3 seats.

    Where I Stayed

    Lisbon

    Portuguese Soul: A 5-bedroom apartment that can sleep up to 15 people near the Saldanha metro station. The owner is a local artist and each room is beautifully decorated with its own themed artwork, such as a full-wall line sketch of the Lisbon cathedral.

    Douro

    Quinta de la Rosa: A working quinta (vineyard) near Pinhao, this place overlooks the river and has a fabulous outdoor terrace where meals are served. Ask for one of the newer suites; there’s a huge difference in quality between these and the rooms in the old house (those are closer to the water, but small and musty).

    Sintra

    Apartment rental: Another beautifully decorated apartment. The owner of this unit is a photographer, and the walls are adorned with enlarged prints from his shoots at the Lisbon Botanical Garden. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk to downtown Sintra.

    Day 1: Lisbon

    I walked from Saldanha house down Aves Republica and Liberadade, over to Alfama and up the hill to Castelo Sao Jorge. Then walked down the twisty narrow streets and had lunch at a small cafe. Continued the walk downhill to the Se. From there I took taxi to the Tile Museum, though I skipped 3rd floor, which everyone kept mentioning. Did I miss something epic?

    Ate dinner at Cafe no Chiado, which served delicious risotto and had a full wall of books—it felt like eating in someone’s library. From there I took a cab to Bairro Alto and bar hopped until 3:30 in the morning, trying cocktails, ginjinhas and Super Bocks at the New Orleans-like bar nooks and street party.

    Day 2: Lisbon

    I rode the bus from Saldanha to Belem, a waterfront neighborhood a good 45 minute ride from downtown Lisbon. The previous night’s bar hopping made for a rough morning, punctuated by a bumpy bus. From the top of the hill where the bus dropped off, I walked through a small botanical garden, then down to the enormous Jeronimos Monastery.

    Ate lunch at Banana Cafe, an outdoor to-go spot across from the monastery with surprisingly fresh salads. Desert was pastries from the Pasteis de Belem—I didn’t go inside but it’s apparently tiled beautifully. I then walked along water past the Soviet-like Monument to the Discoveries statue and the stubby little Belem tower from which Vasco de Gama departed.

    It took a while to find a cab from the Belem Tower. Spent the evening at Miradouro Sao Pedro for sunset and sangria. Walked to Bairro Alto for din at touristy place. Took funicular down to Rossio and had ginjas at Ginjinha sem Rival.

    Day 3: Lisbon

    Took the metro to 2nd to last stop on blue line, Terreiro do Paco, and got out in a large square, Praca do Comercio. Ate lunch in a sidewalk cafe right off the square on Avenida Augusta and took the Tram 28 to Miradouro da Graca. Then walked down to Miradouro Santa Luzia, which had a different perspective than the other miradouros (away from the city center) and had a “beerodouro.” Continued walking down through Alfama past the Santa Justa Elevator and to the Restauradores metro stop. Went home to Saldanha via Sao Sebastio; walked to big Soviet-like park with giant Portuguese flag.

    Ate dinner at Tagide to celebrate my grandma’s 80th birthday. Located in Chiado, it’s a Michelin-rated restaurant with great city views.

    Day 4: Road Trip – Lisbon, Obidos, Nazare, Aveiro, and Douro

    Drove from Lisbon to Obidos, about an hour away. It’s a well preserved walled medieval town; you can climb the walls and walk around the perimeter. Ate lunch at a shady outdoor cafe near the church. Gihnjas de Obidos, the must-try cherry liqueur show served in a chocolate thimble are from here, and there are plenty of bars with tables outside serving the drink. There are also vendors with art, cork bags and other souvenirs, but the town escapes a total “tourist trap” feel.

    From Obidos I drove to Nazare, about 30 minutes away. I got out at an overlook near the Farol da Nazare and hiked down the hill to the lighthouse point. This is where, when conditions are right, the some of the world’s biggest waves ever surfed break. There’s a beautiful deserted beach on one side, and while it was flat the day I was there, there are signs detailing the surfing feats that have happened here. I then went back up to the little town center, where a miradouro overlooks the main Nazare beach. You can’t see the lighthouse from town, so you have to walk or drive down (careful, it’s windy).

    About 2 hours’ drive from Nazare is Aveiro, known as the Venice of Portugal. Honestly, there’s not much here for a quick visit. I got some pretty pictures at the one canal I saw, but it felt both touristy and shabby. I don’t know if there’s an actual purpose for the canals. ATMs worked here at least; had problems using the ones in Lisbon.

    From Aveiro it was on to the Douro. When I reached the valley, rain clouds were rolling through, with patches of light shining on terraced vineyard hills and a green river. Once you get into quinta country you’ll be on a super windy cliffside roads that are very narrow.

    Got to Quinta de la Rosa just in time for the communal dinner. There was only one dish/menu served; not a lot of choice for picky eaters (my plate of shredded cod and potatoes went untouched). But the wine and port is served liberally!

    Day 5: Douro

    Started the day with a private boat ride on Douro, departing from Pinhao (a 5 minute drive down the hill from Quinta de la Rosa). We passed quintas, terraced hills, and only one other boat—it was very peaceful.

    Then drove to Restaurante DOC, a food temple on the river. The service, setting, and food was all wonderful. I loved the pop rocks mini dessert and the fact that one of the tasting menus is called an “olive oil menu.” After lunch I went to Quinta do Tedo and sampled some red ports—you should call ahead to quintas to reserve a time to visit, it’s harder to just walk in.

    That night I had dinner in Pinhao, a river cruise port town that was dead at night (only one river cruise ship was docked tonight, and the passengers stayed on board). Ended up eating at a family spot, Adega Grande Porto. Again, one meal on the menu, but LOTS of it: huge carafes of wine, and pork, sausage, lamb, Port soaked cake, Port tasting glasses, etc.

    Day 6: Road Trip – Douro, Coimbra, Sintra

    Drive to Coimbra from Douro (2 hrs or so). It’s a medieval/university town, an odd mix. Lunch at Cafe Santa Cruz, a restaurant built out of part of the adjacent church. I then spent an hour or so walking around the town and across bridge for city views. I then meandered up to the university but left without finding good views.

    I drove 2 more hours to Sintra, playground of palaces about a half hour from Lisbon. You can see the Moorish Castle atop the hill as you drive in. I walked into town and had a large drink at the centrally located outdoor patio at Hockey Cafe. A short walk away from the main square is a quiet miradouro; I sat here and watched the sunset. Had dinner at Ristorante Alcobaca, which had a large shark figurine hanging out front. After dinner I got a drink at the bar across from the Sintra National Palace.

    Day 7: Sintra

    From Sintra, I walked up to the Moorish Castle. It was a long, hot walk up—so many stairs. It’s a cool open air fort, with a lot more stairs. There were long lines to the Pena Palace by bus so I walked through the woods, which took about 10 minutes. Tip: go to the Moorish Castle first and buy tickets for both sites there; it’s cheaper and will save you a long wait in line at Pena.

    Pena Palace is a wonky-colored (purple, yellow, black and white checkered) mismatched building set on beautiful grounds. It’s easy to get lost here, especially on the side paths in the gardens. Skip the rooms in the palace (they’re crowded) but walk around the castle exterior and the gardens (be sure to go up to the cross).

    Back in Sintra I had a giant sangria at Hockey Caffe. Watched the sunset at the same miradouro, this time with vinho, and then dinner at a little restaurant right off the miradouro. Had beers at a latenight bar and walked home with the Moorish Castle glowing in the night.

    Day 8: Road Trip – Sintra, Azenhas do Mar, Cabo da Roca, Cascais

    I drove half hour from Sintra to Azenhas do Mar, a tiny seaside town with an awesome miradouro. Ate lunch at Nortada, a restaurant overlooking the ocean. Drove a little farther down the coast to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in continental Europe. From there it was on to Cascais (with a stop at Boca de Inferno, which sometimes turns into a blowhole, though today there were no waves). Cascais was a casual waterside town with a slight, but not super, beachy vibe. I browsed some market stalls and had a beer at a bar on a side street before heading back to Sintra.

    Day 9

    Time to go home!

    Related Posts

    Photos: Sintra, Portugal

    Portugal in Photos

  • Long Weekend in Puerto Rico

    Long Weekend in Puerto Rico

     

     

    In March I took a last minute trip to San Juan, Puerto Rico for 3 days (3 nights). Here’s what I did there:

    How I Got There

    JetBlue flight from JFK: so much legroom, plus with in-flight TV I got to watch March Madness on the plane.

    Where I Stayed

    Quality Inn El Portal: I booked the trip about 4 days before my departure date, during high spring break season, so most budget hotels and Airbnbs (and all hostels) were booked. This place was clean, the staff was friendly, there was a (very basic) continental breakfast and it was a 5 minute walk from Condado beach. About $150/night; $25 cab from the airport.

    Thursday

    Bodega Chic: I met my friend Liz after her dinner here. She raved about the French-Caribbean food. Staff was full of recommendations for bars, restaurants and things to do.

    La Factoria: Liz’s reaction to this place: “It feels like a Mumford and Sons concert in here.” Turns out there are hipsters in San Juan, and this converted factory-turned cocktail den is where they hang out.

    La Taberna Lúpulo: Craft beer is just starting to become cool in PR but there still aren’t many places to get it. This is one of the best beer bars on the island, with 50 brews on tap.

    Cafetin Marrero: A quieter neighborhood bar with a retro New York juke box and bathrooms outside in the back. When we were here the bartender was giving an old man a haircut.

    El Batey: Feels like it should be in Brooklyn (the MetroCards hanging from a lamp help), there isn’t an inch of wall in this bar that hasn’t been scribbled on.

    Oddly enough, about a week after I got back, Conde Nast Traveler published this story that traced a lot of my San Juan steps.

    Old San Juan at Night
    La Factoria
    La Factoria
    Cafetin Marrero
    El Batey
    El Batey

     

    Friday

    Latin Star Cafe: Not recommended. It looked quick and was on the way to the beach. Cold food and slow service.

    Condado Beach: Your average hotel-fronted Caribbean beach. But there’s warm water, a few palm trees and ample sand…  and when it’s 35 degrees on the East Coast, those things are sometimes all I care about.

    Castillo San Felipe del Morro: Came here for sunset, but the fort itself closes at 6 so didn’t make it inside. Beautiful sunset gathering spot though, overlooking the bay.

    Barrachina: Home of the original pina colada. It was the best pina colada I’ve ever had, so I was shocked when the women next to me asked for a wine list.

    Cafe Puerto Rico: This place was busy, but there was a public square with a dance and drum performance across the street during the wait. Great mofongo here – worth the wait.

    Old Harbor Brewery: Another beer spot in San Juan, though this one brews its own. Try the Coqui beer, a light lager, but for a better selection, Lupulo is your spot.

    Condado
    Condado
    Castillo San Felipe del Morro
    Sunset
    Barrachina
    Barrachina

     

    Saturday

    El Yunque: Rented a car in Condado and drove out about an hour to El Yunque. The rainforest was good for a few hikes and a view from the Yokahu Tower. If you’re brave (I wasn’t), take a dip in the freezing water at La Mina Falls. Spent about 3 hours here.

    Luquillo and the Kiosks: Circled through Luquillo town, which was sketchy and abandoned, then backtracked to the “kioskos” a mile or so east. The food kiosks start to all look the same, but the offerings were cheap and delicious. There are also bar and shopping vendors here. Walk through the kiosks onto Luquillo Beach. On Saturday it blows up into a local party spot, with music blasting from trucks that had subwoofers the size of a car. Red lifeguard shacks, yellow sand, blue sky, and green palms makes for a colorful photo op.

    Fajardo and the Bioluminescent Bay: Lesson learned – plan ahead if you want to go on a bio tour. I only got on one due to a cancellation. Another tip – opt for a boat tour vs a kayak. You’ll stay dry and can use your camera. The bio bay tours leave from a little port village with a few touristy (but quality) vendors and beach bars.

    Note: Saturday night traffic in Condado is terrible, and there aren’t many gas stations. Fill up your car before getting back into the heart of San Juan, or be prepared to spend 2 hours in traffic.

    El Yunque
    El Yunque
    Luquillo Beach
    Luquillo Beach
    Fajardo Bio Bay
    Farjado Bio Bay

     

    Sunday

    Time to go home!

    Puerto Rico photos>>