Jess Moss Travel

Category: Blog

How to Spend 4 Days in Holbox, Mexico
I spent a long weekend (Thursday – Sunday) on the island of Holbox, Mexico in December. I had heard of the island (which is apparently pronounced “Hol-bosch” not “Hol-box”) for a number of years. Despite being near-ish to Cancun, it was billed as the anti-Cancun — no mega resorts, cash only, and few of the tourist crowds. It’s popular among Europeans but Americans haven’t taken over en masse yet, though it’s becoming increasingly popular among the Instagram set for its colorful street art and FOMO-inspiring water hammocks. I haven’t been to Tulum, but I’m told Holbox is what Tulum was like 20 years ago, before it blew up.

Here’s what I did:

Note: these are just rough, unedited travel notes. For examples of my published writing, check out my published clips.

How to Get to Holbox

Most people get to Holbox by flying into Cancun, then traveling by car/van about 2½ hours north to the little port of Chiquila. From here, it’s about a half-hour long ferry to Holbox, where you can hop on a ATV-golf cart–style taxi or walk to your hotel.

It’s possible to take a bus from Cancun to Chiquila where the Holbox ferry is. You can also grab a taxi from the airport, though that’ll cost you. If you’re on a tight budget that’s your best bet, though from what I could tell you have to transfer from the Cancun airport into the city and then get your bus there. You can also rent a car and drive yourself, but the roads aren’t great at some parts.

With limited time and Spanish skills, I organized a transfer with Holbox Adventure through my hotel and am so glad I did. The transfer cost $150 each way (total price for two of us) and included a private van transfer with airport pick-up, tickets to the ferry, and a taxi pickup once we arrived in Holbox. They coordinated tickets and timing, so we just showed up and watched the countryside speed by.

Two notes if you do use a driver and aren’t fluent in Spanish, like us:
- Arrival at the Cancun airport is a little confusing — there are a few areas where people will try to pick you up/offer you a ride. We almost got duped by someone trying to “help” us, who kept telling us the driver to Holbox was in a different location from where our guy actually was waiting. Follow the pickup instructions closely, don’t give your name out, and find the official tourism people in the airport if you need directions.
- Most things in Holbox are cash-only, and our transfer was no exception. I thought I had paid for it when booking our hotel; turns out it was just an online deposit that ultimately went toward the hotel room, not the transfer. So I had to fork over the entire 3,000 pesos I took out for my time on the island to our driver. So make sure you take out extra cash to pay for the transfer, even if you book it through your hotel.
Where to Stay in Holbox

While the island of Holbox is about 26 miles long, the town on the island only takes up a mile or two, and the rest of it is largely nature preserve and undeveloped. Because of that, lodging is mostly concentrated around this town. Hotels range from little hostel-like lodgings to boutique beach spots — no chains or big resorts here. There’s also Airbnb, though the tourism office discourages use of that here because it’s said to be causing gentrification and developers are pricing out residents to build rental units. The hotels are spread along the beach and through town. I thought it was easiest to stay close to town, whereas if you’re at the far end of the beach (at like Hotel Villas Flamingos or near Punta Cocos) it’ll be about a half-hour walk, or a short bike/taxi ride into town.

Here’s where we stayed:

Hotel La Palapa: Friends recommended this beachfront spot, and I wholeheartedly second the suggestion. The hotel is RIGHT on the beach, like about 15 steps from our room to the sand. It’s about 2 blocks from downtown, meaning it’s right there and takes like 2 minutes to walk to the center of things, but it’s removed from any nighttime noise. The beach itself is compact and on the shady side, but there’s a little beach bar and a handful of loungers/chairs on the sand where you can order drinks and watch the water.

The rooms were spacious and clean, with cool little touches like towel animals and a sink and showerhead that were basically giant conch shells that cascaded water.

How Much Money to Bring to Holbox?

Almost everything on Holbox is cash-only, and there are only a couple ATMs on the island — one at the police station, and one at a Ci Bank on Calle Tiburon Ballena. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t, and sometimes they have a line of people waiting to use them and then they run out of money.

We read online that a rule of thumb for how much money you need in Holbox is 1,000 Mexican pesos per day per person. That’s about right, however it doesn’t account for specific activities or things like transfers. For two people, over four days, we spent about $17,000 pesos: 6,000 on transfers to/from the airport, 4,600 on a fishing charter, and the remainder on food/drink. Most meals set us back 300-600 pesos. We didn’t splurge on any big meals, but also didn’t hold back on drinks — beer cost like 40 pesos, and cocktails were about 120 pesos.
Where to Eat & Drink on Holbox

Before traveling here we collected the following Holbox restaurant recommendations from friends and blogs. In 3½ days on the island we made it to almost all of these spots (marked with an * asterisk)! We did not, however, try the Lobster Pizza that Holbox is known for.
- Las Planchas*: right behind the hotel and a great spot for lunch — fresh seafood
- El Cafecito*: some of the best coffee in town, and delicious breakfasts and juices
- Luuma: A cool bar/resto where you eat in like a garden. Very instagrammable. One of the more “upscale” places on the island (though nothing here is incredibly fancy).
- Coquitos Beach Club*: Trendy spot on the beach west of town with a beautiful bar + bar swings!!
- Viva Zapata*: also has bar swings! Good menu, has a bit of a touristy/international vibe but food is far above tourist traps.
- Holbox Foodie Market*: outdoor market with live music (though we didn’t see any music while here). Mix of tacos, burgers, sandwiches, and seafood.
- Raices Bar*: has great seafood and good cocktails. Looks over beach and has hammocks and swings. Great sunset spot.
- Cafe del Mar: (by Fly Fishing Lodge) supposedly has good cocktails and is good sunset spot
- Los Pelones has good pasta
- Hot Corner*: a good bar; right by the hotel; gets crowded on weekends; live music and dancing; free cocktails for ladies on Thursday nights from 8 pm to 10 pm
- Bar Arena*: rooftop bar
- Barba Negra: gourmet tacos, located in Holbox Foodie Market
- Basico: recommended for juice, food, drinks
- Zomay: beach bar with drinks on swings
- El Chapulim: great food (try the fish tacos) in cozy spot
What to Do in Holbox

Relax, of course! This place is beach bum heaven, where the dress code includes flip flops and you can easily pass a day just gazing at the blue Caribbean waters. For the more activity-prone, here are some other things to do aside from eat, drink, and chill.
- Lie in water hammocks: They’re all over, with some strung along the main beach, as well as at Punta Cocos.
- Fishing: You can charter a local guide to go deep sea or not-as-deep sea fishing. If you’re really serious about it, a couple of fly fishing operators set up whole tours.
- Rent bikes or a golf cart and explore the island
- Find the flamingos: You can often see them around Punta Mosquito, and also may spot some at Punta Cocos. Or just keep an eye out for a pink bird flying!
- Kayaking: Tours are approx 2 hours and you go through mangroves. (Tours leave only in the mornings around 9 am so plan ahead)
- Bioluminescent Tours & Beach: Punta Cocos on the southwestern side of the island is a bio bay; you can swim in the water here or join a tour and paddle around the glowing water. Check moon phases before you come — the best time to see the phosphorescence is during a new moon when it’s darker out.
- Sunset at Punta Cocos: Sunset is something to see wherever you are on the island, but Punta Cocos is the best place to watch. It’s the westernmost spot on the island and has a little bar setup so attracts a fun crowd of sunset-seekers. Bring a flashlight or plan for a taxi to come pick you up — the bugs get bad after dark and the dirt road back to town is dark and pot-holey.
- Swim with whale sharks: Whale shark season in Holbox runs from June through September. During this time you can join a tour to snorkel or dive with the majestic animals.
4 Days in Holbox — What I Did

Day 1 (Thursday)

We arrived in Cancun and first needed cash. Flying in on Southwest, we landed in a terminal that didn’t have an ATM, so went on a little airport adventure to find one. After the transfer via van, boat, and ATV, we arrived at our hotel around dinner time.

El Taco Queto: We stumbled across this super casual taco spot, which is basically a smattering of plastic tables and chairs under an awning … and it turned out to be one of our best meals on the island. It’s BYOB (pick up beer at the market next door), with tacos, quesadillas, and chips and guac.

Hot Corner: This is one of the main nighttime hangouts in Holbox, with live music and a great location on a downtown corner. It’s about as clubby as we saw, but the dress code is backpacker-chic; you’ll see far more flip-flops than heels. Thursday is “ladies’ night” so women get free cocktails. Or you can get beer from the market across the street and sit on the curb and listen to the music and dance in the street.

Day 2 (Friday)
I woke up and went for a run along the beach — the sand here is hard-packed so it was a great beach run, and I got to scope out bars and beach setups along the way to return to later. Morning was also a great time to visit the big photo opps: the “Holbox” sign had no one there, nor did the Holbox hammocks. Later in the day, both of these are quite popular.

El Cafecito: This little cafe has good smoothies, coffee, and sandwiches/breakfast food like omelets. There’s an inviting front porch with brightly colored tables and chairs for al fresco breakfast.

After breakfast we had to go to the ATM like 3 times because paying for our transfer in cash drained all the money I took out. After empty machines and one that seemed to be frozen, we got one to work and got mas dinero.

Las Planchas: We came for lunch and enjoyed huuuuge servings of fresh seafood and tacos. It was very fresh and very good. The restaurant is right behind Hotel La Palapa; I couldn’t figure out what hours this open-aired seafood centric spot was open, since there were always people here but a “closed” sign was often up, but they seem to at least do breakfast and lunch.

After lunch we took a beach walk to Las Nubes at the far eastern end of town. Along the way we scoped out the beach bars, many of which have my new bar obsession: BAR SWINGS!!! I also tested out the hammocks that are strung on posts in waist-high water all over the beaches here. Once we made it to the end of the beach, and a little beyond, we turned around and walked back on sand bar for about a mile back to town.
Raices: A lot of people rave about this beachfront bar and restaurant. We set up camp here to wait out our first real Holbox sunset (there are great views here, as there are all along this stretch of beach. The pier is a popular place to watch sunset too — there’s an unobstructed view here). Little did we know they have a sunset ritual, which includes a conch shell, and a feathered fire dancer.

Viva Zapata: Despite seeing bars with swings all day, none of them were actually OPEN yet, until we got to Viva Zapata. Off the main drag in town, this place has an eclectic menu and flags from around the world line the walls. At first glance, it feels like it might be a not-so-great tourist trap, but the food is excellent, and anyway who cares if it’s touristy because swings.
Day 3 (Saturday)

Fishing! Holbox is a fishing hotspot, for everything from deep sea to hand lines to fly fishing. We set up a fishing charter through our hotel, and a local captain came and picked us up right from the beach at La Palapa. Once we were out of sight of land, we dropped anchor and our captain set us up with hand lines and bait. From there we had a solid 3 hours of catching what would end up being our lunch — mostly pargo (snapper) and grouper, plus a few jacks and one little pufferfish who our guide set free after inflating.

Upon our return, the captain chopped up our catch into the freshest ceviche I’ve ever had, which we enjoyed beachside at our hotel.

Sunset at Punta Cocos: Holbox is known for its sunsets, and this is the ultimate place to watch the show. It’s about a half-hour walk from downtown Holbox to Punta Cocos at the western end of the island (or you can bike or take a taxi buggy). Once you’re here, it’s beach heaven: a smattering of chaise lounge chairs set amidst shrubby trees on the water’s edge, a small bar (we brought beers not knowing there’d be some to buy), hammocks strung in the water, and a pier that was closed to the public but made a nice backdrop in the sunset. Farther west, the bay opens up; we saw a flock of flamingos and at night this is where many of the bioluminescence tours operate.

Sunset here lived up to expectations, but what was not expected were the mosquitos that came out in force as soon as the light started to fade. Hardcore DEET bugspray was not a deterrent, these things were insane.

Coquitos Beach Club: On the walk back to town from Punta Cocos, we stoped at this trendy beach club, which had a very photogenic bar swing set up, as well as some delicious margaritas.

Holbox Foodie Market: This tiny airy food hall has an assortment of different restaurants/food trucks. We did Barba Negra which had really good tacos

Bar Arena: The rooftop bar on top of Hotel Arena has expansive views of town, plus a small pool which had a giant flamingo floatie in it.

Hot Corner: Compared to our visit on Thursday night, Saturday was much more crowded here, though we were still able to grab seats at the outdoor bar. There were many folks sitting on street median; good people watching.
Day 4 (Sunday)

Because our airport transfer began at 11 am (to make it to a 5 pm flight from Cancun — we arrived at the airport at 2:30 pm), we took it easy today and spent the morning just chilling at the hotel beach.

Want more Holbox? Check out this photo tour of the island>>
January 1, 2020
A Photo Tour of Holbox, Mexico

About 3 hours northwest of Cancun, the island of Holbox is the antidote to its neighbor’s built-up tourism machine. The island’s largely cash-only, there are hardly any cars, and the seafood was likely caught a few hours before it lands on your plate.

The fishing village-turned vacation town is a photographer’s dream, with colorful murals on the town’s streets, Instagrammable features like water hammocks and bar swings, and out-of-this-world sunsets that paint the sky and water a rainbow of colors.

For more info on visiting this island, check out this 4-day Holbox itinerary.

One of Holbox’s most photographed features are these hammocks strung in the surf off the main beach. (iPhone 10s)

A main street in downtown Holbox. There are very few cars on the island — mostly bikes and ATV/golf-cart taxis. (iPhone 10s)

Holbox’s streets are full of colorful murals. (iPhone 10s)

Street art extends beyond the street here — you’ll also find murals on the beach in Holbox. (iPhone 10s)

Holbox is FULL of hammocks. They’re on the beach, at hotels, at bars … (iPhone 10s)

The island of Holbox is more than 20 miles long, but most of it is protected nature preserve. (DJI Spark)

Sunset is a special time on Holbox — here at Raices, a beachfront bar and restuarant, a sunset ceremony involves blowing conch shells. (iPhone 10s)

Many of the bars along Holbox’s beach make great sunset spots. (iPhone 10s)

At Las Planchas, fresh catch is whipped into tacos, ceviche and more. (iPhone 10s)

You can spot flamingos wading in the shallow water. (Canon 6D)

Holbox is an excellent (and relatively affordable!) place to charter a fishing tour. (DJI Spark)

After fishing, chow down on your catch with some fresh ceviche. (iPhone 10s)

Bar swings are common — and probably the most fun thing — at Holbox’s bars. These are at Coquitos Beach Club. (iPhone 10s)

Holbox is known for its sunsets, and one of the best places on the island to watch is Punta Cocos, on the westernmost part of the island. (DJI Spark)

Punta Cocos has handful of chairs and loungers, plus a small bar, where you can hang out as you watch the sun set. (iPhone 10s)

Read more about how to visit the island in this four-day Holbox travel guide>>

December 19, 2019
How to Spend 8 Days on Kauai: Travel Guide
Hawaii is my favorite place on the planet, and while every island is special, Kauai’s blows them all away. It’s stunningly green and blue and beautiful, it’s small enough to get everywhere, and it’s not quite as resorty as some of the other islands.

In January I flew to Kauai for 8 days. It was the perfect amount of time on the island — enough beach bumming time and a handful of hikes and activities.

The one downside was that parts of the North Shore are currently closed due to extreme flooding in the spring of 2018. The road to access Kalalau Trail, Kee Beach, and some of the other spots past Hanalei is closed, so sadly we didn’t get any Kalalau hiking in.

Here’s what we did, ate, and where we stayed:

Where to Stay

One of the most common questions I get is, what side of the island should I stay on? My typical answer is, if you can swing it and don’t mind a hotel change, do half your trip on the North Shore and half on the South Shore.

The North Shore (Princeville, Hanalei, etc.) is heaven on earth. It’s mountainy, it’s lush, it has some great food. It’s also home to my favorite beach in the world: Hanalei Bay. But it also can be rainy, and in winter the waves can be big.

The South Shore (Poipu, Koloa, etc.) on the other hand is more consistently sunny and has beaches that are more protected so are better for winter swimming (especially if you’re here with kids). It’s also more convenient to the boat tours from Port Allen and the web of hiking trails in Waimea Canyon and Kokee State Park.

If you’re on a budget, or are only here for a short trip, look at the East Side (Kapaa, Wailua, Lihue). It’s much more central — easier to get to any part of the island, and there are some less expensive options.

For this trip, we actually stayed 3 places: Lihue for a night (friends graciously let us crash at their hotel when we got in), Princeville, and Poipu. I also saw 2 places that I’m obsessed with and need to come back and stay in:

Kauai Marriott Resort: Lihue as a town isn’t that exciting, but this resort is very nice. It’s right on Kalapaki Beach, where you can swim and paddleboard and walk to a handful of restaurants. The highlight of the resort (in my opinion), is its stunning pool, and the parrots/wildlife garden in the middle of the lobby.

Princeville Resort: Formerly the St. Regis (it recently changed hands), this is one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed in, simply because of its location and its views. (The hotel itself is a tiny bit dated, but they’re redoing it, and also who cares because those views though.) It’s perched overlooking Hanalei Bay, so expect to spend a lot of time staring at the edge of the water…

Poipu Kapili Condos: For our South Shore leg, we rented this condo on VRBO. It was perfect for 2 couples: plenty of space, great views, and almost constant whale sightings — in one case they were only about 100 yards offshore!

The Palmwood: A little jungle hideaway up in the hills of the North Shore. I didn’t get to stay here but came for an afternoon and am itching to get back there. The house has 3 units, and a stay comes with incredible breakfasts. You get sunrise and sunsets over the mountains and it’s an oasis of zen and island calm.

Gillin Beach House: When I walked by this Mahaulepu beach house, I took a picture to post in my cubicle as a “work hard to retire and buy a house like this” reminder. Welp, it turns out you can rent it! It’s the only house for miles around, has amazing beach, whales, and sunset views, and in the scheme of rentals isn’t too expensive.

Getting Around

You need a car on Kauai (on any Hawaiian island, really). I rented a small SUV on Priceline which cost a little under $600 for 7 days.

Once we got to the checkin they upsold us to a Jeep for an additional $136. Jeeps aren’t necessary for most things but if you want to get to Polihale, Mahaulepu, and some of the Waimea Canyon hikes it makes the off-roading drive easier. (Though technically some of these spots aren’t covered in your rental agreement so you don’t wanna blow a tire.)

Super glad we got the Jeep but I’ve done Kauai in a sedan in the past and it’s fine.

What To Do

Day 1: Arrival and Lihue

Landed around 6 pm (moments before the sun set – first Hawaiian sunset yay!). The airport is tiny so it’s easy to pick up your car etc.

Two friends had space in their room at the Marriott Vacation Club at the Lihue Marriott so we crashed with them. Had we not, probably would’ve driven straight to the North Shore, but after like 20 hrs of travel and 5 hrs time zone change, staying in Lihue was nice and easy.

Food:
- Dinner: Dukes on Kalapaki Beach: right next to the Lihue Marriott, this Hawaiian restaurant is a good entry into island life -think outdoor dining, tiki torches, drinks in pineapples, etc. The bar menu is a bit more casual and h lower prices than the upstairs dining room.
Hotel: Kauai Marriott

Day 2: Wailua River Kayak & Drive to the North Shore

Made our way slowly up the east side of the island from Lihue to the north shore.

Things We Did:

Kapaa Coastal Path: To kill time before our kayak rental, we walked along this 3-ish mile path along the water. You can rent bikes too, right off the trail in Kapaa.

Wailua River and Secret Falls: rented kayaks from Wailua Kayak and Canoue. There are a handful of kayak rental spots along the river but this one is easy since you can roll your boat on a wheely thing to the out-in spot. $99 for a 2-person kayak for 5 hrs, plus they have coolers, dry bags, etc.

We paddled about 45 mins up the river to a beach where you can ditch the kayak and hike on a very muddy trail to a big waterfall. (Secret Falls, but it’s definitely not secret, lots of people.) Wish I had brought my water shoes since there were some river crossings on the hike. Bring beers and sandwiches and you can have a little picnic at the falls (you can also swim in the, but it’s collld). There are also guided tours but we just wanted to do our own thing.

Kilauea Lighthouse: Great views and whale/bird watching (look for nene, an endangered goose — the Hawaiian state bird). When we got here it was closed for govt shutdown so we couldn’t actually go to the lighthouse.

Hanalei Valley Overlook: I love this viewpoint over the mountains and taro fields because it always looks different in morning vs afternoon light

Food:
- Breakfast: Coffee bar at the Lihue Marriott. Expensive — like $6 for a make it yourself bagel and little tub of cream cheese.
- Lunch: Mermaids Cafe in Kapaa. Got sandwiches to go for the kayak trip but the sit-down salads and grain bowls also looked great.
- Dinner: Tahiti Nui in Hanalei. Local tiki/Hawaiian spot that is in the movie The Descendants. Live father-son duo crushed it with Hawaiian music and Hawaiian covers of classic rock songs. At around 9 all these locals poured in — I think the scene turns dancier and it’s the hangout spot, but we couldn’t stay awake to find out.
Hotel: Princeville Resort

Day 3: Hang on the North Shore

Our plan was to hike ~8 miles on the Kalalau Trail to the Hanakapiai waterfall but the road is closed just past Hanalei due to major floods last spring. So you can’t access the trail or beaches like Lumahai or Kee.

Things We Did:

Walk Hanalei Bay: This is my favorite beach in the world, a 2-mile cerulean crescent of sand that’s backed by stunning green mountains laced with waterfalls.

Princeville Resort Beach: Had some beach beers in the loungers at the resort beach. I had bought a cheapo mask and snorkel so popped into the water (theres a big reef just off the beach). You can also rent water gear from a little stand here.

Hanalei Bay Sunset: Parked on the sand near the pier and watched the sun set over the bay. This sunset was especially memorable!

Food:
- Breakfast: Hanalei Bread Company: a hip and busy bakery/coffee shop from the folks who own Bar Acuda and Ama. Freshly baked breads too — we bought some for later.
- Lunch: Went to the Foodland grocery store in Princeville to try save money and get breakfast/snacks for the room. That. Place. Is. Expensive! Should’ve gone to Costco or Safeway in Lihue.
- Dinner: Bar Acuda in Hanalei. Made a reservation. They serve tapas style food (with local ingredients) that was very good. Pricey.
Hotel: Princeville Resort

Day 4: More North Shore Beach Time

Things We Did:

Walk around Princeville: There’s a walkway overlooking the ocean with benches to sit and look for whales (bring binoculars!). To see them (between Nov. and April), look for a little white puff that lingers — that’s how you can tell where they are.

Hideaways Beach: A very steep and muddy (like there are rope railings you’ll want to grab) walkway next to the parking lot before the Princeville Resort leads to this hidden little beach. Awesome snorkeling if you bring gear and the water is calm.

Princeville Resort Beach (again): Hung out at the resort beach again and watched boyfriends take photos of their dolled up influencer gfs.

Anini Beach: Switched it up and headed to this beach that is super flat/safe for swimming. Popular spot among families and campers — you can pitch a tent right there next to the sand.

Sunset at the Princeville Resort bar: Perched over Hanalei Bay, this is one of the best sunset spots. Get there at least an hour before sunset if you want a table.

Star pics on the beach: Winter isn’t great for Milky Way visibility, but Hawaii skies are so dark you can still see it, low on the horizon. You can even see it bare eyed, plus watch for shooting stars!

Food:
- Breakfast: Ate groceries at the hotel
- Shave Ice break: Went to Wishing Well, a little shack on the north side of the road as you drive into Hanalei. They have a ton of options, but I went with a simple strawberry-mango-grape ice only (didn’t add ice cream). They have some cute tank tops and hoodies and hats too.
- Lunch: Hit up the little food truck lot in Hanalei. We wanted to eat at Trucking Delicious because it’s supposed to be awesome, but it was closed Sun/Mon so we missed it. Instead got good fresh sandwiches at Fresh Bite Kauai. There were also trucks with Thai and Brazilian eats.
- Dinner: Princeville Resort bar — ordered a flatbread plus some wine while we watched the sunset.
Hotel: Princeville Resort

Day 5: Poipu, West Kauai & Whale Watching Boat

Things We Did:

Waterfalls: On the drive south we stopped at two East Side waterfalls that you can drive up to. First, Opaekaa Falls also has good views of Wailua River. Next, Wailua Falls has an overlook that’s quite close to the falls.

When driving south, we took the Kapaa bypass route to avoid town traffic.

Kauai Coffee Company: Kona coffee’s the best known, but this is Hawaii’s largest coffee estate. Did the short self-guided walking tour. I learned that you’re never supposed to put coffee in the fridge or freezer! (I don’t drink coffee though, so maybe everyone knows that already.) You can then sample like 30 different coffees. It’s all free so is an easy stop and you can ship coffee home.

Waimea Canyon Overlook: Drive up the windy road from Waimea town up to the canyon. There’s a big parking lot at the main canyon overlook. If it’s cloudy wait a bit to see if they blow through.

Hanapepe: A tiny little west Kauai town with some art galleries and a swinging bridge you can walk across. It’s kinda underwhelming, but on Friday nights they have an art walk that sounds like it’s cute if you’re out here.

The whole west side of the island is much hotter, more arid and things are covered with a red dust.

Glass Beach: Right near the Port Allen boat launch is a beach that doesn’t look like much when you pull up but walk up to the waters edge and you’ll see that the sand is largely little pieces of sea glass. It’s mostly clear and brown glass but you can find some nice blues and greens in there.

Kauai Island Brewing: Stopped at this brewpub for a pint before our boat left. It’s a quick walk from the Port Allen boat harbor.

Whale Watching Tour: During whale season (Nov. to April), pretty much any boat you get on turns into a whale watching cruise. But we opted for Blue Dolphin Charters’ specific whale watching tour because we wanted to follow the whales, rather than see them along a prescribed snorkel/Napali Coast sailing route. In our case we didn’t have to go far — saw at least 6 whales, including one that surfaced right near the boat! They also served Mai Tais and beers, plus some food.

Food:
- Breakfast: Swung by Hanalei Bread Co. again for that awesome fresh bread.
- Lunch: One of my favorite spots on the island is Puka Dog, which does Hawaiian-style hot dogs. They toast the roll from the inside and fill it with special sauces and Hawaiian relishes like pineapple or mango. Not the most traditional Hawaiian meal, but it’s better than any stadium hot dog you’ve ever had.
- Snack: Lapperts ice cream is a Hanapepe tradition, and on a hot day the homemade island-inspired flavors are just right.
- Dinner: Snacked on pupus that were served on the whale watching boat, then came back to our condo and snacked more on the food we bought at Safeway in Lihue on our drive south.
Hotel: Poipu Kapili condo

Day 6: Big Hike and a Big Beach

Things We Did:

Awaawapuhi hike: This is a tough but totally worth it 6-ish mile hike to a spectacular viewpoint overlooking the Napali Coast. You park at the trailhead in Kokee State Park (pick up a hiking stick at the start of the trail), then head a little over 3 miles downhill to the overlook. This part’s pretty easy, unless it recently rained and then it’ll be slippery.

The viewpoint has a metal observation rail, but you can walk down another 100 feet or so to a better view. From here you can keep going farther but it crosses a thin ledge that has 2,000 foot dropoffs on either side. Usually I’m all for those scrambles but I got vertigo just looking at it so stayed behind. The tough part on the hike comes on the way back up — it’s that same 3ish miles back uphill, so bring plenty of water. The whole hike takes 3-4 hours.

Polihale Beach: The longest beach in Hawaii is also one of the most remote. To get here you’ve gotta bounce down a long unpaved potholey road (hence the Jeep, though it was dry so we saw smaller cars doing it). Once you’re here it’s rugged and beautiful — the cliffs of the Napali Coast bookend the northern beach, the waves are huge, the dunes are huge, and the beach stretches for like 7 miles. It’s a perfect place for a picnic, especially at sunset. But don’t plan on swimming, and be careful if it’s rainy — the road in floods.

We then got back and tried to go to a farmers market in Koloa which is open on Wednesdays, but I think we missed it. Spent the evening watching whales and sunset from the condo in Poipu.

Food:
- Breakfast: Stopped at Aloha Roastery in Koloa town for coffee.
- Lunch: After our hike we stopped at Island Taco over in Waimea. The food was good but for some weird reason they didn’t let you mix and match taco orders; your 2 tacos had to be the same type. Also slow service.
- Dinner: Keokis Paradise is run by the same people who do Duke’s. It’s a fun open air tropical restaurant with tiki torches. Feels pretty touristy, but apparently locals like the bar too and hey, you’re a tourist. Eat at the bar for lower food prices (but still good options).
Hotel: Poipu Kapili condo

Day 7: Helicopter and Poipu

Things We Did:

Jack Harter Doors-Off Heli Flight: This is a total splurge that’s totally worth it. Seeing Kauai by helicopter gives you an amazing view of parts of the island that are otherwise inaccessible.

Usually I think it’s best to do this early in your trip — that way you get a good sense of what’s where on the island and you have time to reschedule if the weather’s bad on flight day. We waited til the end of our trip because we had 2 friends coming in who we wanted to fly with. Went in the morning which is good for visibility— we lucked out and had no clouds on Mt. Wai‘ele‘ele so got to see the summit. But morning light on Napali is harder for photos; afternoon light is probably best for that part of the coast.

We chose the doors-off helicopter because it is better for photos: you have no reflections getting in the way of your shots. It is cold though — wear pants and a jacket if you do it.

Koloa Town: This little cross-roads is much cuter than resorty Poipu. There’s a block or two long stretch with cafes and some shops.

Mahaulepu Beach: This is a beautiful rugged stretch of coast just east of Poipu. It’s hard to get to (made harder right now because there was a film set barring the main road in) — the road is unpaved so again a 4WD car is highly recommended. Keep an eye out for monk seals sleeping on the beach and whales playing offshore. There’s also a coastal trail here that goes from near the Grand Hyatt about 2 miles to the beach (we didn’t hike it though).

Food
- Breakfast: Ate groceries at the house
- Lunch: Grabbed sandwiches and mac salad at Koloa Deli
- Dinner: Made reservations for a sunset dinner at The Beach House, which is right on the water. This is one of Kauai’s “special occasion” spots (though I think sunset is a special enough occasion to go here on its own!). It’s a bit pricey, but the food (seafood and island faves) is fantastic and the sunset view is one of the best on this side of the island.
Stay: Poipu Kapili

Day 8: Waimea Canyon Hike and Departure

Our flight didn’t leave til 11 pm (which was almost impossible to stay awake for, given the east coast time change), so we took advantage of our last full day plus friends who were staying longer’s B&B to shower before the plane.

Things We Did:

Canyon Trail Hike: This Waimea Canyon hike takes 1-2 hours and is about 3 miles round trip. It’s not too tough; you climb down to the canyon rim, then walk along that (look for goats on the cliffs) until you hear the waterfall (and people screaming in the cold water). This is the waterfall that you can see across the way at Waimea Canyon overlook; this hike takes you to the top of it, where you can sit overlooking the canyon. The climb back up is a bit of an effort, but not as long or sustained as Awaawapuhi.

Getting to the trailhead’s the hardest part. For this you need a Jeep or 4WD — the road is crazy bumpy. If you don’t have that car you just have to park at the top and walk down said bumpy road an additional 3/4 of a mile to the trailhead.

Puu o Kila Lookout: Just past Kalalau Lookout (stop there too; we were hungry so skipped it), this is where you’ll find that classic postcard view of the green folded cliffs of Napali Coast. Look down into the Kalalau Valley — apparently a bunch of hippies live off the grid in the jungle here (this is a fascinating story about them).

Warehouse 3540: We drove by this place a bunch not really knowing what it was and finally stopped on our way back east. OMG what a cool spot — it’s a warehouse-turned-market for all these adorable artists and shops, plus a handful of food trucks. I bought some prints at Ocean Paper because I was obsessed with everything they had.

The Palmwood: Our friends were spending the rest of their stay at the Palmwood, a B&B-style retreat in the jungle on the North Shore. What an amazingly peaceful and beautiful spot. Definitely want to come back here for a stay.

Food
- Breakfast: Cleaned out the last of our groceries at the condo.
- Lunch: Kauai Poke Co. is one of the food trucks at Warehouse 3540. The poke bowls were delicious and use all locally caught ahi.
- Dinner: En route to the airport we stopped in Kapaa for a meal at The Local. This friendly spot had live music and the walls were decked with amazing scenes by a local photographer. Most of the menu items are locally sourced.
January 13, 2019
New Haven Weekend Trip: Wedding Guest Guide

I went to a wedding in New Haven, Connecticut over New Years this year. FRIGID temps and a blanket of snow made it hard to tour Yale’s campus and other New Haven top sights, but we were able to eat and drink our way around the town for a few chilly days.

How to Get There

I rode the Amtrak to New Haven from Washington D.C. — the trip took about 5½ hours. From the look of the highway traffic battling snow along the way, train was definitely the way to go.

Where to Stay

Courtyard New Haven: This hotel was about a ten minute walk from the center of New Haven. Staff was friendly, rooms were clean and there’s a bistro and small marketplace in the lobby.

The Study at Yale: Most of the wedding party stayed here. The lobby bar is a large and a good meeting place. The hotel also has a great penthouse space with a bar and a view over New Haven.

Where to Eat and Drink

You can’t go to New Haven without trying New Haven Pizza — we ordered Pepe’s and the coal-fired pizza did not disappoint. (Full disclosure though, I didn’t try the clam pie that they’re known for.) The Study at Yale has a good bar with a few good craft beers on tap and a handful of wines. Some of my friends went to BAR, an industrial-chic spot known for its pizza and beer. For daytime drinks or brunch, I really liked Box 63 — the comfortable pub has a weekend “acoustic brunch” with a guitarist. Cask Republic has a big selection of beers on tap, plus whiskies and some beer-whiskey (yep, it’s a thing). Ordinary had a good-size back room that fit our large group, but the bar staff were condescending and rude. And finally, Roia, where the wedding took place, was beautiful and had great food and drinks.

January 7, 2018
20 Adventure-Inspiring Photos of Cuba

In November 2016 I took advantage of the easing of U.S. travel restrictions to Cuba and spent a week exploring the Caribbean island. I visited Santa Clara, Havana, Cienfuegos and Trinidad, encountering beautiful culture and scenery, plus a wildly different standard of development and daily life than I’m used to.

Here are some scenes from that trip that capture what makes traveling to Cuba such an adventure.

Cuba is known for its classic cars, many of which are now taxis.

You can’t visit Cuba without trying a Daiquiri — the drink was invented on the island.

Speaking of Daiquiris, Ernest Hemingway was a big fan of the drink. You can visit the writer’s home about 30 minutes from Havana.

Overlooking Cienfuegos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on Cuba’s south coast.

Visit a cigar shop or a factory to learn more about Cuba’s famous product. (And pick up some souvenirs!)

Old Havana’s colorful streets are full of murals.

Che Guevara is a frequent subject of said murals.

To learn more about El Che, head to the Che Guevara Mausoleum in the city of Santa Clara.

Havana’s seawall, the Malecon, is a popular gathering spot at sunset.

Most romantic spot in Havana? A couple on the Malecon.

Havana’s Gran Teatro all lit up at night.

Bring your phone flashlight: Many streets in Cuba — including in Old Havana — don’t have street lights.

The colorful streets of Old Havana by day.

You can’t go far in Old Havana without running into some live music — you’ll find it on streets, at restaurants and in bars.

This simple sandwich, or bocadito (small bite) is a common lunch dish.

The catalog system of the main library in university city Santa Clara.

Playa Ancon is a nice beach about 15 minutes from the town of Trinidad.

Sunset in Cienfuegos, on Cuba’s south coast.

Fidel Castro’s presence is evident across Cuba; my visit coincided with his death, so I’d imagine the tributes are even more prevalent now.

Sunset on the cobbled streets of Trinidad, a colorful town rich in music and culture.

Related Posts

Planning a Trip to Cuba: Your Questions Answered

How to Travel to Cuba Without a Tour Group

Photo Editing Tips: How I Made This Sunset Image

January 7, 2018
What to Do with 5 Days in Dubrovnik
I traveled to Dubrovnik for 5 days in July 2017. We used it as a base to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site walled city, track down Game of Thrones filming locations (it’s Kings Landing!), and take a handful of day trips, including to Montenegro and the island of Mljet.

How to Get to Dubrovnik

The main purpose of my trip was a wedding in Greece after the Dubrovnik leg. Turns out travel between Greece and Croatia is a lot tougher than I expected. There aren’t direct air connections daily, and if you’re hoping to travel by boat, be forewarned it takes like 26 hours via ferry and goes through Italy.

Without my specific itinerary complication though, getting to Dubrovnik is pretty easy. There are plenty of connecting flights from other cities in Europe. There are ferries from other Croatian islands, like Split and Hvar. The airport is about 30 minutes from the city — a pretty drive along the coast. You can take the bus or a taxi cost 35-45 euros.

Where to Stay in Dubrovnik

I stayed in the heart of the Old City, in a wonderful studio apartment Airbnb. (GoT fans, it was right at the base of Ceresi’s Shame Stairs.) There are a ton of great Airbnbs in the Old City — just be prepared to walk up a lot of stairs (inside and on the side streets leading up to the houses). Most of the hotels themselves are outside the city.

So, should you stay in Dubrovnik’s Old City or outside the walls? It kinda depends. Staying in the Old City is super convenient — you can walk home from the bars and restaurants at night, and you can pop home during the day for a bathroom or to cool down in a/c. But … it is CROWDED in there. Like middle-of-Times Square crowded. This made it pretty overwhelming any time we stepped out the door.

If you aren’t into crowds, consider staying outside the city. I heard great things about the Hotel Excelsior, which is a short walk from the city walls. If you have money to spend and want to relax, the Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel had incredible views and looked amazing. Oh, and there’s also a hotel with a cave bar.

What to Do in Dubrovnik

Arrival Night

After about 24 hours of travel, we arrived to the city around 9 pm. Entering the Old City through the Pile Gate (pronounced Pila) is probably the coolest entrance to a city I’ve ever made. You cross a drawbridge and it feels like you’re entering a castle. We made it out for dinner and a few drinks, then crashed at our Airbnb.

Gradska Kavana Arsenal: A great place for dinner on one of the Old City’s main squares. We sat outside and sipped Croatian wine from Istria. I didn’t know it at the time, but it’s run by one of the city’s most prominent restaurant groups (that also runs Dubravka, Panorama, etc.).

Gusto Giusto: Dubrovnik is full of these little hole-in-the-wall restaurant/bars on side streets. This one had a few small tables outside, and some people were just sitting on the steps. Small but interesting selection of local beers and wine, plus some cocktails that I didn’t try.

Dubrovnik city walls

Day 1

We covered a lot of touristing ground today, and it was all fantastic. Knocked off three of the top things to do in Dubrovnik (walls, kayaking, Mt. Srd).

City Walls: You can climb up onto the top of Dubrovnik’s walls and do a full loop around the city. It’s fantastic — the views are amazing and there are little cafes and bars to get refreshments along the way.

The secret to doing the walls is to do it early —get up there at 8 am and be done by 10 — or late, around sunset time. Since this is probably the #1 thing to do in Dubrovnik, the walls get very crowded during the day. Plus there’s not a ton of shade so you’ll roast if you go midday. Ticket costs 150 kuna (at this writing Dubrovnik isn’t on the Euro), and there’s no reentry. To do the full loop takes about 1.5-2 hours.

Trattoria Tezoro: Went here for breakfast. To be honest, all breakfasts were pretty much the same: you choose from American, French, Italian, etc. and then get some combo of OJ, coffee, sliced meat and cheese.

Sea Kayaking with Dubrovnik Walks: On a hot summer day sea kayaking tours are the best way to stay cool. This operator runs 7-km trips from right outside the city walls. You paddle around Lokrum Island and then stop at a beach in a cave. You can book in advance, though we reserved online about an hour before the trip.

Mt. Srd cable car: For some of the best views of Dubrovnik, take the cable car to the top of Mt. Srd (or hike, if you’re up for a climb). There’s a museum and a restaurant at the top. Tip: Buy your tickets online beforehand (cost is about $22), then skip the line when you get to the cable car.

Panorama: The restaurant at the top of Mt. Srd is the best meal with a view you’ll have in Dubrovnik. If you want to sit right on the edge for a sunset dinner you’ll have to make reservations a year or more in advance. But you can just walk in and get a non-edge seat (and if you stay past sunset you might be able to move seats closer).

Panorama Restaurant

Day 2

Dubravka: This restaurant right outside Pile gate is popular among locals and tourists. It has a great breezy patio overlooking the city walls. Good for any meal, and a little cheaper than the restaurants inside the walls.

City tour: We joined a local tour guide from the Dubrovnik visitors’ bureau. Learned some interesting things:
- The Franciscan pharmacy is one of the oldest in Europe — you can buy rose water here
- Earthquakes are responsible for the varied architectural styles, while the war in the 1990s destroyed the city’s roofs, which is why they all look new
- Friday is the city’s busiest day
- Some restaurants to check out:
  - Azur (Mediterranean food with an Asian twist)
  - Prieko (street full of restaurants)
  - Mishta (vegetarian food)
  - Posaj (outside the city, local food)
  - Dolce Vita (ice cream)
Restaurant Orsan: To escape the Old City crowds we headed over to Lapad, an easy cab ride away. Lunch at this harborside restaurant was relaxing, delicious and a bit cheaper than the tourist center prices.

Lapad coastal trail: From nearby Restaurant Orsan, a quiet walking path meanders along the coast, past little piers and beaches. As it rounds the Lapad peninsula there are larger techno-bumping beach clubs and some resorts.

Buza Bar: My favorite thing in Dubrovnik. Buza literally means “hole in the wall,” and these bars (there are two) sit on the rocks just outside the city walls. The first Buza is a bit more commercial — there are seats and a full bar setup. The second is more makeshift, but it is better for swimming. You can also BYOB to both of these spots.

Lajk: This family run restaurant had outside tables on the Prieko street. Good food, local wines.

Buza Bar

Day 3

Day trip to Montenegro: We hired a driver to take us across the border to Montenegro for a daytrip.

More info about that on this blog post!

Dubravka: Not just a breakfast spot — great for a big group dinner.

Troubadour Jazz Cafe: Small bar with live music at night. Performers play outside so you can sit at the neighboring bars on the square if seats fill up.

Perast, Montenegro

Day 4

Day trip to Mljet: We hopped a ferry to this large island with a national park about 1.5 hours away from Dubrovnik. Left at around 9 am and returned by around 6:30.

More info about that day trip on this blog post!

Restaurant Kopun: Tucked in a quiet square in front of the Jesuit Church, this restaurant specializes in castrated chicken (kopun). But there are plenty of other options on the menu too, and in tough-to-get-a-table Dubrovnik, it was a great option for walk-in outdoor dining for a group.

Mljet

Day 5

Our flight was leaving at around 4:30, so we only had a partial day. We weren’t sure about going to Lokrum — might be too much of a production — but it was such a peaceful escape from Dubrovnik and super easy to get to.

Lokrum: The small island off Dubrovnik is a super easy, relaxing break from the hot crowded city streets. It’s about a 10 minute ferry ride over there. Once on the island, there are beaches, chaise lounges, walking trails through forests with peacocks roaming, and a few restaurants. GoT fans, there’s also an Iron Throne you can pose on, and an exhibit of various Dubrovnik filming locations.

Iron Throne on Lokrum

Random Stuff You Should Know about Dubrovnik
- Game of Thrones stuff is EVERYWHERE. There are tours all over, kitschy souvenirs and T-shirts for sale all over, and two Iron Thrones (one in the Old City that you can sit on after purchasing something in the shop, and a free one on Lokrum)
- Restaurants inside the city walls are pricey. As soon as you step outside (like, even right outside at Dubravka) the prices drop.
- Just reiterating the crowds. Overtourism is definitely a problem here.
- Tourism is the main industry here, so most people speak English.
- February 3rd is the city’s #1 celebration: St. Blaise festival
- Some local products to buy: rose water, coral jewelry, embroidered goods.
- It’s hard to get into many of Dubrovnik’s popular restaurants at dinner. If there’s a spot you want to try, make reservations.
September 4, 2017
Why Mljet is the Perfect Island Daytrip from Dubrovnik
After a few days of fighting crowds in the busy streets of Dubrovnik, a trip to Mljet was a breath of fresh air and a welcome escape.

Mljet is a large, lush island with a national park on its western end that has saltwater lakes, a meta island-on a lake-on an island, and some of the bluest water you’ll ever see. Daily boats from Dubrovnik make this an easy daytrip, though once you’re there the peace and quiet will likely tempt you to spend the night (and if you have the time, do it!).

Getting to Mljet

There are high-speed ferries to Mljet from Dubrovnik, Split and other islands. The trip from Dubrovnik takes about 1½ hours. If you’re heading to the national park, take the ferry from Dubrovnik to Polace, where you can pick up a bike, catch a shuttle, or walk about 25 minutes to the national park. Boats leave the city at 9:15 am and return at 4:55 pm (getting back around 6:30 pm).

Coming from or going to another part of Croatia? The other Mljet port with easy access to the national park is Pomena, which has a bit more going on than Polace, including a hotel.

If you’re going farther afield on the island, you’ll want to rent a car or use taxis, or you can rent bikes. If you’re just exploring the national park (and are up for a couple-mile walk), you can do it all by foot.

Exploring Mljet National Park

Occupying the western part of the island, this national park is a gem. You can buy an entry ticket (about 100 kn) at Polace when you get off the ferry, or at the park entrance about 30 minutes’ walk from port. Inside the park you’ll find well-marked trails and two unbelievably blue and swimmable saltwater lakes, one of which has an island with a monastery set in the middle of it. (You can take a little boat here for lunch and a dip.)

Aside from boating and swimming, the park’s two lakes are home to some interesting creatures: coral, jellyfish, and shellfish — including mussels that can grow up to 2 feet long. The smaller lake, Malo Jezero, is warmer and shallower than the grand lake, Veliko Jezero, making it a popular swimming hole. The two lakes are connected by a bridge that you can swim under.

One Day on Mljet
- 11:00 am: Arrive in Polace. Hit up the little grocery market for some water and snacks, then buy your park ticket at the little booth.
- 12 pm: Get to the national park, explore the walking trails around Veliko Jezero.
- 1 pm: Take a boat across the lake to St. Mary’s. Eat lunch and explore the monastery and island.
- 2:30 pm: Boat to Malo Jezero for a swim in the smaller lake
- 3:30 pm: Head back to Polace – you don’t want to miss the boat! Grab a drink at one of the harborside bars or restaurants before you board.
- 4:30 pm: Board ferry back to Dubrovnik.
- 6:35 pm: Arrive back in Dubrovnik in time for sunset!
Boats moored near Polace on Mljet

Veliko jezero, one of two saltwater lakes in Mljet National Park

Aboard the boat from the monastery on St. Mary’s Island, in the middle of Veliko Jezero

Notes left by visitors to the chapel on St. Mary’s Island

Boat for rent in Mljet National Park

Not a bad place for a rest!

Walking the lakeside path along Velika Jezero

Map of Mljet
August 11, 2017
#EmailPost:
How to Spend 4 Days on Kauai

From: Jess Moss
To: Friend asking what to do with four days on Kauai. (She’s staying at the Marriott in Lihue.)
Date: July 3, 2017

Subject: Hawaiiiiiiiiiii 🐳🌺🌈🌴🏄

So jealous!!! And I can’t wait to hear all about it!

Here are some of my fave things:

Kauai:
(You’re renting a car, right? You need one)
-North Shore: Absolutely beautiful. Spend a day here (or more)! Hanalei Bay is my favorite beach in the world. You can do surfing lessons or stand up paddling here. Makena/Tunnels beach is known for snorkeling.

-By your hotel: the Marriott’s on a little bay that is a good place for stand up paddling. It’s in Lihue so is close to the helicopter trips.

-Helicopter: Def do this – schedule it early in your trip so you can scout out the island and find places you want to go back to – also if weather is bad you have time to resched. If you aren’t too freaked out by heights, do the “doors off” heli – you won’t get reflections in your photos that way. If you do a doors on one, wear dark colors so you don’t reflect in the glass.

-Waimea Canyon: sometimes called the Grand Canyon of the pacific. Really cool and lots of hiking options.

Here’s roughly what I would recommend:

Day 1:

helicopter ride, then check out Poipu on the south shore. Good beach there, you can often see monk seals! Also have some surf schools in the area I think. You drive through a cool tree tunnel to get there. There are a bunch of restaurants at the resorts, and some in Koloa. For nice meals, Beach House is always a top pick for romantic sunset dinners. One of my personal faves is Puka Dog, a Hawaiian hotdog spot that fills your hot dog bun with local fruit relishes and toppings. Soooo good!

Day 2:

Head up to the North Shore for the day. Stop for a pic at Waimea Falls, Kilauea Lighthouse, and the taro fields in Princeville. Head to the end of the road at Kee Beach and hike the first part of the Kalalau Trail (the epic hike you mentioned). I did the 2 mi trek in and back in like 3 hours, I think? It was tough, bring water and a snack. Then you can spend the afternoon in Hanalei or at Hanalei Bay. Hang out on the pier for sunset or head up to the St Regis for a drink at their incredible bar. Lots of cute local spots for dinner, I haven’t been there in a while though so you’re better off asking locally for recos 🙂

Day 3:

(I think this would be Friday). Head out to the west side of the island. Drive up to the Kalalau Lookout in Kokee State Park (where all those famous Hawaii photos are shot). If it’s cloudy be patient, they’ll usually blow through. Then check out Waimea Canyon for a hike. Also out there are some great empty beaches. Polihale is one, kinda tough to get to but it’s huge and deserted. Head into Hanapepe in the evening, they have a Friday night art walk. Alternatively you can go to Port Allen and hop on a sunset sail.

Day 4

Either go back to a spot on the island you want to spend more time in, relax at the hotel, or check out Kapaa and Wailua on the east side.

July 7, 2017
#EmailPost:
Hawaii Honeymoon Calendar

From: Jess Moss
To: Friend asking what to do on his honeymoon on Maui & the Big Island
Date: June 20, 2017

Subject: Potential Honeymoon Calendar

Cool, so here’s roughly what you could do:

12/27: Land, dinner, crash

12/28: Consider doing Haleakala sunrise (you’re going to be waking up super early cuz of the time difference, so might as well take advantage and do sunset at Haleakala this day since it involves waking up at like 4 am)

12/29 ~ 12/30: One of these days you’ll want to drive the Road to Hana, my favorite road trip in the world (unless you get car sick…). Rent a convertible for it!

12/31: Beach, boat, whatever you want!

1/1: am to HNL. Look into luggage storage at Pearl Harbor – it’s near the airport so if you get tickets beforehand you could time it to go from your flight rather than battling traffic to/from multiple times.

1/2: Oahu ~ Waikiki, Diamond Head climb, sunset sail

1/3: am to Kona.

Where to stay kind of depends on what you want to do on the big island. Volcanoes is a must, and it’s a long haul from either the kohala or kona coast. so here’s more of the breakdown:

A) kohala/waikoloa: closer to waimea valley/hamakua coast (hiking), mauna kea (stargazing), waimea (cowboy country). area is sunny and has lots of resorts and beaches/snorkeling.

B) kona coast/keahou: the sheraton is nice here, otherwise it’s a bit less resorty and more like a town. closer to coffee plantations, artsy enclaves and green & black sand beaches, and a bit closer to volcanoes.

…I think you’ll probably like the Kohala/ CoastWaikoloa are more, but there are plenty of forums online about choosing between them!

1/4: Celebrate Jess’s bday.

1/5: One of these days you’ll want to do Volcanoes NP. It’s a long drive (~3-4 hrs 1-way from Kohala and ~3 hrs from Kona? ish?) so it can be nice to spend the night out there. I recommend spending the night the day you explore, since seeing the glowing crater and lava at night is amazing when it’s on. There’s a place in the park called Volcano House, otherwise the town of Volcano has some b&bs or Hilo is kind of dumpy but is a shorter drive.

1/6: pm flight home

****

June 20, 2017
#EmailPost:
Where to Stay on Maui
From: Jess Moss
To: Friend asking which hotel to stay at on his honeymoon on Maui & the Big Island
Date: June 19, 2017

Subject: Re: Places to Stay on Maui

Asking about these hotels:
- Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club – Molokai, Maui & Lanai Towers
- The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Ka’anapali
- Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa
- Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort
Those are all good!

For the first three, Marriott, Westin, Hyatt, honestly I doubt there’s much difference between them since they’re all on the same beachfront and look like pretty similar hotels. There’s a beach path that connects all of them so you can walk between them all. The Westin is a bit closer to Whaler’s Village, a little shopping center, but again, I think they’re all pretty comparable.

I haven’t seen the Andaz but I’ve heard good things – it’s newer than the others.

Overall Kaanapali (where the first three are) is going to be a bit more happening than Wailea. I think of Wailea as being a little older and more upscale. Both are little beach communities, but I think Kaanapali has more going on, and it’s easier to reach Lahaina. That might be me though, I’ve always gravitated toward staying in West Maui vs the South Shore.

Also, both are pretty resort-heavy areas. That means there will be plenty to do but it won’t feel as secluded/private. If you want a bit of privacy I’d recommend looking at Travaasa Hana for 1 night. It’s an all-inclusive on the other side of the island, so you drive the famous Road to Hana to get there, and then rather than turning around and coming back in a day, you spend the night in a little cottage and make your way back the next day.

****
June 20, 2017