Jess Moss Travel

Category: Travel Guides

  • How to Spend 4 Days in Holbox, Mexico

    How to Spend 4 Days in Holbox, Mexico

    I spent a long weekend (Thursday – Sunday) on the island of Holbox, Mexico in December. I had heard of the island (which is apparently pronounced “Hol-bosch” not “Hol-box”) for a number of years. Despite being near-ish to Cancun, it was billed as the anti-Cancun — no mega resorts, cash only, and few of the tourist crowds. It’s popular among Europeans but Americans haven’t taken over en masse yet, though it’s becoming increasingly popular among the Instagram set for its colorful street art and FOMO-inspiring water hammocks. I haven’t been to Tulum, but I’m told Holbox is what Tulum was like 20 years ago, before it blew up.

    Here’s what I did:

    Note: these are just rough, unedited travel notes. For examples of my published writing, check out my published clips.

    How to Get to Holbox

    Most people get to Holbox by flying into Cancun, then traveling by car/van about 2½ hours north to the little port of Chiquila. From here, it’s about a half-hour long ferry to Holbox, where you can hop on a ATV-golf cart–style taxi or walk to your hotel.

    It’s possible to take a bus from Cancun to Chiquila where the Holbox ferry is. You can also grab a taxi from the airport, though that’ll cost you. If you’re on a tight budget that’s your best bet, though from what I could tell you have to transfer from the Cancun airport into the city and then get your bus there. You can also rent a car and drive yourself, but the roads aren’t great at some parts.

    With limited time and Spanish skills, I organized a transfer with Holbox Adventure through my hotel and am so glad I did. The transfer cost $150 each way (total price for two of us) and included a private van transfer with airport pick-up, tickets to the ferry, and a taxi pickup once we arrived in Holbox. They coordinated tickets and timing, so we just showed up and watched the countryside speed by.

    Two notes if you do use a driver and aren’t fluent in Spanish, like us:

    • Arrival at the Cancun airport is a little confusing — there are a few areas where people will try to pick you up/offer you a ride. We almost got duped by someone trying to “help” us, who kept telling us the driver to Holbox was in a different location from where our guy actually was waiting. Follow the pickup instructions closely, don’t give your name out, and find the official tourism people in the airport if you need directions.
    • Most things in Holbox are cash-only, and our transfer was no exception. I thought I had paid for it when booking our hotel; turns out it was just an online deposit that ultimately went toward the hotel room, not the transfer. So I had to fork over the entire 3,000 pesos I took out for my time on the island to our driver. So make sure you take out extra cash to pay for the transfer, even if you book it through your hotel.

    Where to Stay in Holbox

    While the island of Holbox is about 26 miles long, the town on the island only takes up a mile or two, and the rest of it is largely nature preserve and undeveloped. Because of that, lodging is mostly concentrated around this town. Hotels range from little hostel-like lodgings to boutique beach spots — no chains or big resorts here. There’s also Airbnb, though the tourism office discourages use of that here because it’s said to be causing gentrification and developers are pricing out residents to build rental units. The hotels are spread along the beach and through town. I thought it was easiest to stay close to town, whereas if you’re at the far end of the beach (at like Hotel Villas Flamingos or near Punta Cocos) it’ll be about a half-hour walk, or a short bike/taxi ride into town.

    Here’s where we stayed:

    Hotel La Palapa: Friends recommended this beachfront spot, and I wholeheartedly second the suggestion. The hotel is RIGHT on the beach, like about 15 steps from our room to the sand. It’s about 2 blocks from downtown, meaning it’s right there and takes like 2 minutes to walk to the center of things, but it’s removed from any nighttime noise. The beach itself is compact and on the shady side, but there’s a little beach bar and a handful of loungers/chairs on the sand where you can order drinks and watch the water.

    The rooms were spacious and clean, with cool little touches like towel animals and a sink and showerhead that were basically giant conch shells that cascaded water.

    How Much Money to Bring to Holbox?

    Almost everything on Holbox is cash-only, and there are only a couple ATMs on the island — one at the police station, and one at a Ci Bank on Calle Tiburon Ballena. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t, and sometimes they have a line of people waiting to use them and then they run out of money.

    We read online that a rule of thumb for how much money you need in Holbox is 1,000 Mexican pesos per day per person. That’s about right, however it doesn’t account for specific activities or things like transfers. For two people, over four days, we spent about $17,000 pesos: 6,000 on transfers to/from the airport, 4,600 on a fishing charter, and the remainder on food/drink. Most meals set us back 300-600 pesos. We didn’t splurge on any big meals, but also didn’t hold back on drinks — beer cost like 40 pesos, and cocktails were about 120 pesos. 

    Where to Eat & Drink on Holbox

    Before traveling here we collected the following Holbox restaurant recommendations from friends and blogs. In 3½ days on the island we made it to almost all of these spots (marked with an * asterisk)! We did not, however, try the Lobster Pizza that Holbox is known for.

    • Las Planchas*: right behind the hotel and a great spot for lunch — fresh seafood
    • El Cafecito*: some of the best coffee in town, and delicious breakfasts and juices
    • Luuma: A cool bar/resto where you eat in like a garden. Very instagrammable. One of the more “upscale” places on the island (though nothing here is incredibly fancy).
    • Coquitos Beach Club*: Trendy spot on the beach west of town with a beautiful bar + bar swings!!
    • Viva Zapata*: also has bar swings! Good menu, has a bit of a touristy/international vibe but food is far above tourist traps.
    • Holbox Foodie Market*: outdoor market with live music (though we didn’t see any music while here). Mix of tacos, burgers, sandwiches, and seafood.
    • Raices Bar*: has great seafood and good cocktails. Looks over beach and has hammocks and swings. Great sunset spot.
    • Cafe del Mar: (by Fly Fishing Lodge) supposedly has good cocktails and is good sunset spot
    • Los Pelones has good pasta
    • Hot Corner*: a good bar; right by the hotel; gets crowded on weekends; live music and dancing; free cocktails for ladies on Thursday nights from 8 pm to 10 pm
    • Bar Arena*: rooftop bar
    • Barba Negra: gourmet tacos, located in Holbox Foodie Market
    • Basico: recommended for juice, food, drinks
    • Zomay: beach bar with drinks on swings
    • El Chapulim: great food (try the fish tacos) in cozy spot

    What to Do in Holbox

    Relax, of course! This place is beach bum heaven, where the dress code includes flip flops and you can easily pass a day just gazing at the blue Caribbean waters. For the more activity-prone, here are some other things to do aside from eat, drink, and chill.

    • Lie in water hammocks: They’re all over, with some strung along the main beach, as well as at Punta Cocos.
    • Fishing: You can charter a local guide to go deep sea or not-as-deep sea fishing. If you’re really serious about it, a couple of fly fishing operators set up whole tours.
    • Rent bikes or a golf cart and explore the island
    • Find the flamingos: You can often see them around Punta Mosquito, and also may spot some at Punta Cocos. Or just keep an eye out for a pink bird flying!
    • Kayaking: Tours are approx 2 hours and you go through mangroves. (Tours leave only in the mornings around 9 am so plan ahead)
    • Bioluminescent Tours & Beach: Punta Cocos on the southwestern side of the island is a bio bay; you can swim in the water here or join a tour and paddle around the glowing water. Check moon phases before you come — the best time to see the phosphorescence is during a new moon when it’s darker out. 
    • Sunset at Punta Cocos: Sunset is something to see wherever you are on the island, but Punta Cocos is the best place to watch. It’s the westernmost spot on the island and has a little bar setup so attracts a fun crowd of sunset-seekers. Bring a flashlight or plan for a taxi to come pick you up — the bugs get bad after dark and the dirt road back to town is dark and pot-holey.
    • Swim with whale sharks: Whale shark season in Holbox runs from June through September. During this time you can join a tour to snorkel or dive with the majestic animals. 

    4 Days in Holbox — What I Did

    Day 1 (Thursday)

    We arrived in Cancun and first needed cash. Flying in on Southwest, we landed in a terminal that didn’t have an ATM, so went on a little airport adventure to find one. After the transfer via van, boat, and ATV, we arrived at our hotel around dinner time. 

    El Taco Queto: We stumbled across this super casual taco spot, which is basically a smattering of plastic tables and chairs under an awning … and it turned out to be one of our best meals on the island. It’s BYOB (pick up beer at the market next door), with tacos, quesadillas, and chips and guac. 

    Hot Corner: This is one of the main nighttime hangouts in Holbox, with live music and a great location on a downtown corner. It’s about as clubby as we saw, but the dress code is backpacker-chic; you’ll see far more flip-flops than heels. Thursday is “ladies’ night” so women get free cocktails. Or you can get beer from the market across the street and sit on the curb and listen to the music and dance in the street.

    Day 2 (Friday)

    I woke up and went for a run along the beach — the sand here is hard-packed so it was a great beach run, and I got to scope out bars and beach setups along the way to return to later. Morning was also a great time to visit the big photo opps: the “Holbox” sign had no one there, nor did the Holbox hammocks. Later in the day, both of these are quite popular.

    El Cafecito: This little cafe has good smoothies, coffee, and sandwiches/breakfast food like omelets. There’s an inviting front porch with brightly colored tables and chairs for al fresco breakfast. 

    After breakfast we had to go to the ATM like 3 times because paying for our transfer in cash drained all the money I took out. After empty machines and one that seemed to be frozen, we got one to work and got mas dinero. 

    Las Planchas: We came for lunch and enjoyed huuuuge servings of fresh seafood and tacos. It was very fresh and very good. The restaurant is right behind Hotel La Palapa; I couldn’t figure out what hours this open-aired seafood centric spot was open, since there were always people here but a “closed” sign was often up, but they seem to at least do breakfast and lunch.

    After lunch we took a beach walk to Las Nubes at the far eastern end of town. Along the way we scoped out the beach bars, many of which have my new bar obsession: BAR SWINGS!!! I also tested out the hammocks that are strung on posts in waist-high water all over the beaches here. Once we made it to the end of the beach, and a little beyond, we turned around and walked back on sand bar for about a mile back to town. 

    Raices: A lot of people rave about this beachfront bar and restaurant. We set up camp here to wait out our first real Holbox sunset (there are great views here, as there are all along this stretch of beach. The pier is a popular place to watch sunset too — there’s an unobstructed view here). Little did we know they have a sunset ritual, which includes a conch shell, and a feathered fire dancer.

    Viva Zapata: Despite seeing bars with swings all day, none of them were actually OPEN yet, until we got to Viva Zapata. Off the main drag in town, this place has an eclectic menu and flags from around the world line the walls. At first glance, it feels like it might be a not-so-great tourist trap, but the food is excellent, and anyway who cares if it’s touristy because swings. 

    Day 3 (Saturday)

    Fishing! Holbox is a fishing hotspot, for everything from deep sea to hand lines to fly fishing. We set up a fishing charter through our hotel, and a local captain came and picked us up right from the beach at La Palapa. Once we were out of sight of land, we dropped anchor and our captain set us up with hand lines and bait. From there we had a solid 3 hours of catching what would end up being our lunch — mostly pargo (snapper) and grouper, plus a few jacks and one little pufferfish who our guide set free after inflating. 

    Upon our return, the captain chopped up our catch into the freshest ceviche I’ve ever had, which we enjoyed beachside at our hotel.

    Sunset at Punta Cocos: Holbox is known for its sunsets, and this is the ultimate place to watch the show. It’s about a half-hour walk from downtown Holbox to Punta Cocos at the western end of the island (or you can bike or take a taxi buggy). Once you’re here, it’s beach heaven: a smattering of chaise lounge chairs set amidst shrubby trees on the water’s edge, a small bar (we brought beers not knowing there’d be some to buy), hammocks strung in the water, and a pier that was closed to the public but made a nice backdrop in the sunset. Farther west, the bay opens up; we saw a flock of flamingos and at night this is where many of the bioluminescence tours operate. 

    Sunset here lived up to expectations, but what was not expected were the mosquitos that came out in force as soon as the light started to fade. Hardcore DEET bugspray was not a deterrent, these things were insane. 

    Coquitos Beach Club: On the walk back to town from Punta Cocos, we stoped at this trendy beach club, which had a very photogenic bar swing set up, as well as some delicious margaritas. 

    Holbox Foodie Market: This tiny airy food hall has an assortment of different restaurants/food trucks. We did Barba Negra which had really good tacos

    Bar Arena: The rooftop bar on top of Hotel Arena has expansive views of town, plus a small pool which had a giant flamingo floatie in it.

    Hot Corner: Compared to our visit on Thursday night, Saturday was much more crowded here, though we were still able to grab seats at the outdoor bar. There were many folks sitting on street median; good people watching.

    Day 4 (Sunday)

    Because our airport transfer began at 11 am (to make it to a 5 pm flight from Cancun — we arrived at the airport at 2:30 pm), we took it easy today and spent the morning just chilling at the hotel beach.

    Want more Holbox? Check out this photo tour of the island>>

  • How to Spend 8 Days on Kauai: Travel Guide

    How to Spend 8 Days on Kauai: Travel Guide

    Hawaii is my favorite place on the planet, and while every island is special, Kauai’s blows them all away. It’s stunningly green and blue and beautiful, it’s small enough to get everywhere, and it’s not quite as resorty as some of the other islands.

    In January I flew to Kauai for 8 days. It was the perfect amount of time on the island — enough beach bumming time and a handful of hikes and activities.

    The one downside was that parts of the North Shore are currently closed due to extreme flooding in the spring of 2018. The road to access Kalalau Trail, Kee Beach, and some of the other spots past Hanalei is closed, so sadly we didn’t get any Kalalau hiking in.

    Here’s what we did, ate, and where we stayed:

    Where to Stay

    One of the most common questions I get is, what side of the island should I stay on? My typical answer is, if you can swing it and don’t mind a hotel change, do half your trip on the North Shore and half on the South Shore.

    The North Shore (Princeville, Hanalei, etc.) is heaven on earth. It’s mountainy, it’s lush, it has some great food. It’s also home to my favorite beach in the world: Hanalei Bay. But it also can be rainy, and in winter the waves can be big.

    The South Shore (Poipu, Koloa, etc.) on the other hand is more consistently sunny and has beaches that are more protected so are better for winter swimming (especially if you’re here with kids). It’s also more convenient to the boat tours from Port Allen and the web of hiking trails in Waimea Canyon and Kokee State Park.

    If you’re on a budget, or are only here for a short trip, look at the East Side (Kapaa, Wailua, Lihue). It’s much more central — easier to get to any part of the island, and there are some less expensive options.

    For this trip, we actually stayed 3 places: Lihue for a night (friends graciously let us crash at their hotel when we got in), Princeville, and Poipu. I also saw 2 places that I’m obsessed with and need to come back and stay in:

    Kauai Marriott Resort: Lihue as a town isn’t that exciting, but this resort is very nice. It’s right on Kalapaki Beach, where you can swim and paddleboard and walk to a handful of restaurants. The highlight of the resort (in my opinion), is its stunning pool, and the parrots/wildlife garden in the middle of the lobby.

    Princeville Resort: Formerly the St. Regis (it recently changed hands), this is one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed in, simply because of its location and its views. (The hotel itself is a tiny bit dated, but they’re redoing it, and also who cares because those views though.) It’s perched overlooking Hanalei Bay, so expect to spend a lot of time staring at the edge of the water…

    Poipu Kapili Condos: For our South Shore leg, we rented this condo on VRBO. It was perfect for 2 couples: plenty of space, great views, and almost constant whale sightings — in one case they were only about 100 yards offshore!

    The Palmwood: A little jungle hideaway up in the hills of the North Shore. I didn’t get to stay here but came for an afternoon and am itching to get back there. The house has 3 units, and a stay comes with incredible breakfasts. You get sunrise and sunsets over the mountains and it’s an oasis of zen and island calm.

    Gillin Beach House: When I walked by this Mahaulepu beach house, I took a picture to post in my cubicle as a “work hard to retire and buy a house like this” reminder. Welp, it turns out you can rent it! It’s the only house for miles around, has amazing beach, whales, and sunset views, and in the scheme of rentals isn’t too expensive.

    Getting Around

    You need a car on Kauai (on any Hawaiian island, really). I rented a small SUV on Priceline which cost a little under $600 for 7 days.

    Once we got to the checkin they upsold us to a Jeep for an additional $136. Jeeps aren’t necessary for most things but if you want to get to Polihale, Mahaulepu, and some of the Waimea Canyon hikes it makes the off-roading drive easier. (Though technically some of these spots aren’t covered in your rental agreement so you don’t wanna blow a tire.)

    Super glad we got the Jeep but I’ve done Kauai in a sedan in the past and it’s fine.

    What To Do

    Day 1: Arrival and Lihue

    Landed around 6 pm (moments before the sun set – first Hawaiian sunset yay!). The airport is tiny so it’s easy to pick up your car etc.

    Two friends had space in their room at the Marriott Vacation Club at the Lihue Marriott so we crashed with them. Had we not, probably would’ve driven straight to the North Shore, but after like 20 hrs of travel and 5 hrs time zone change, staying in Lihue was nice and easy.

    Food:

    • Dinner: Dukes on Kalapaki Beach: right next to the Lihue Marriott, this Hawaiian restaurant is a good entry into island life -think outdoor dining, tiki torches, drinks in pineapples, etc. The bar menu is a bit more casual and h lower prices than the upstairs dining room.

    Hotel: Kauai Marriott

    Day 2: Wailua River Kayak & Drive to the North Shore

    Made our way slowly up the east side of the island from Lihue to the north shore.

    Things We Did:

    Kapaa Coastal Path: To kill time before our kayak rental, we walked along this 3-ish mile path along the water. You can rent bikes too, right off the trail in Kapaa.

    Wailua River and Secret Falls: rented kayaks from Wailua Kayak and Canoue. There are a handful of kayak rental spots along the river but this one is easy since you can roll your boat on a wheely thing to the out-in spot. $99 for a 2-person kayak for 5 hrs, plus they have coolers, dry bags, etc.

    We paddled about 45 mins up the river to a beach where you can ditch the kayak and hike on a very muddy trail to a big waterfall. (Secret Falls, but it’s definitely not secret, lots of people.) Wish I had brought my water shoes since there were some river crossings on the hike. Bring beers and sandwiches and you can have a little picnic at the falls (you can also swim in the, but it’s collld). There are also guided tours but we just wanted to do our own thing.

    Kilauea Lighthouse: Great views and whale/bird watching (look for nene, an endangered goose — the Hawaiian state bird). When we got here it was closed for govt shutdown so we couldn’t actually go to the lighthouse.

    Hanalei Valley Overlook: I love this viewpoint over the mountains and taro fields because it always looks different in morning vs afternoon light

    Food:

    • Breakfast: Coffee bar at the Lihue Marriott. Expensive — like $6 for a make it yourself bagel and little tub of cream cheese.
    • Lunch: Mermaids Cafe in Kapaa. Got sandwiches to go for the kayak trip but the sit-down salads and grain bowls also looked great.
    • Dinner: Tahiti Nui in Hanalei. Local tiki/Hawaiian spot that is in the movie The Descendants. Live father-son duo crushed it with Hawaiian music and Hawaiian covers of classic rock songs. At around 9 all these locals poured in — I think the scene turns dancier and it’s the hangout spot, but we couldn’t stay awake to find out.
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    Hotel: Princeville Resort

    Day 3: Hang on the North Shore

    Our plan was to hike ~8 miles on the Kalalau Trail to the Hanakapiai waterfall but the road is closed just past Hanalei due to major floods last spring. So you can’t access the trail or beaches like Lumahai or Kee.

    Things We Did:

    Walk Hanalei Bay: This is my favorite beach in the world, a 2-mile cerulean crescent of sand that’s backed by stunning green mountains laced with waterfalls.

    Princeville Resort Beach: Had some beach beers in the loungers at the resort beach. I had bought a cheapo mask and snorkel so popped into the water (theres a big reef just off the beach). You can also rent water gear from a little stand here.

    Hanalei Bay Sunset: Parked on the sand near the pier and watched the sun set over the bay. This sunset was especially memorable!

    Food:

    • Breakfast: Hanalei Bread Company: a hip and busy bakery/coffee shop from the folks who own Bar Acuda and Ama. Freshly baked breads too — we bought some for later.
    • Lunch: Went to the Foodland grocery store in Princeville to try save money and get breakfast/snacks for the room. That. Place. Is. Expensive! Should’ve gone to Costco or Safeway in Lihue.
    • Dinner: Bar Acuda in Hanalei. Made a reservation. They serve tapas style food (with local ingredients) that was very good. Pricey.
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    Hotel: Princeville Resort

    Day 4: More North Shore Beach Time

    Things We Did:

    Walk around Princeville: There’s a walkway overlooking the ocean with benches to sit and look for whales (bring binoculars!). To see them (between Nov. and April), look for a little white puff that lingers — that’s how you can tell where they are.

    Hideaways Beach: A very steep and muddy (like there are rope railings you’ll want to grab) walkway next to the parking lot before the Princeville Resort leads to this hidden little beach. Awesome snorkeling if you bring gear and the water is calm.

    Princeville Resort Beach (again): Hung out at the resort beach again and watched boyfriends take photos of their dolled up influencer gfs.

    Anini Beach: Switched it up and headed to this beach that is super flat/safe for swimming. Popular spot among families and campers — you can pitch a tent right there next to the sand.

    Sunset at the Princeville Resort bar: Perched over Hanalei Bay, this is one of the best sunset spots. Get there at least an hour before sunset if you want a table.

    Star pics on the beach: Winter isn’t great for Milky Way visibility, but Hawaii skies are so dark you can still see it, low on the horizon. You can even see it bare eyed, plus watch for shooting stars!

    Food:

    • Breakfast: Ate groceries at the hotel
    • Shave Ice break: Went to Wishing Well, a little shack on the north side of the road as you drive into Hanalei. They have a ton of options, but I went with a simple strawberry-mango-grape ice only (didn’t add ice cream). They have some cute tank tops and hoodies and hats too.
    • Lunch: Hit up the little food truck lot in Hanalei. We wanted to eat at Trucking Delicious because it’s supposed to be awesome, but it was closed Sun/Mon so we missed it. Instead got good fresh sandwiches at Fresh Bite Kauai. There were also trucks with Thai and Brazilian eats.
    • Dinner: Princeville Resort bar — ordered a flatbread plus some wine while we watched the sunset.
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    Hotel: Princeville Resort

    Day 5: Poipu, West Kauai & Whale Watching Boat

    Things We Did:

    Waterfalls: On the drive south we stopped at two East Side waterfalls that you can drive up to. First, Opaekaa Falls also has good views of Wailua River. Next, Wailua Falls has an overlook that’s quite close to the falls.

    When driving south, we took the Kapaa bypass route to avoid town traffic.

    Kauai Coffee Company: Kona coffee’s the best known, but this is Hawaii’s largest coffee estate. Did the short self-guided walking tour. I learned that you’re never supposed to put coffee in the fridge or freezer! (I don’t drink coffee though, so maybe everyone knows that already.) You can then sample like 30 different coffees. It’s all free so is an easy stop and you can ship coffee home.

    Waimea Canyon Overlook: Drive up the windy road from Waimea town up to the canyon. There’s a big parking lot at the main canyon overlook. If it’s cloudy wait a bit to see if they blow through.

    Hanapepe: A tiny little west Kauai town with some art galleries and a swinging bridge you can walk across. It’s kinda underwhelming, but on Friday nights they have an art walk that sounds like it’s cute if you’re out here.

    The whole west side of the island is much hotter, more arid and things are covered with a red dust.

    Glass Beach: Right near the Port Allen boat launch is a beach that doesn’t look like much when you pull up but walk up to the waters edge and you’ll see that the sand is largely little pieces of sea glass. It’s mostly clear and brown glass but you can find some nice blues and greens in there.

    Kauai Island Brewing: Stopped at this brewpub for a pint before our boat left. It’s a quick walk from the Port Allen boat harbor.

    Whale Watching Tour: During whale season (Nov. to April), pretty much any boat you get on turns into a whale watching cruise. But we opted for Blue Dolphin Charters’ specific whale watching tour because we wanted to follow the whales, rather than see them along a prescribed snorkel/Napali Coast sailing route. In our case we didn’t have to go far — saw at least 6 whales, including one that surfaced right near the boat! They also served Mai Tais and beers, plus some food.

    Food:

    • Breakfast: Swung by Hanalei Bread Co. again for that awesome fresh bread.
    • Lunch: One of my favorite spots on the island is Puka Dog, which does Hawaiian-style hot dogs. They toast the roll from the inside and fill it with special sauces and Hawaiian relishes like pineapple or mango. Not the most traditional Hawaiian meal, but it’s better than any stadium hot dog you’ve ever had.
    • Snack: Lapperts ice cream is a Hanapepe tradition, and on a hot day the homemade island-inspired flavors are just right.
    • Dinner: Snacked on pupus that were served on the whale watching boat, then came back to our condo and snacked more on the food we bought at Safeway in Lihue on our drive south.

    Hotel: Poipu Kapili condo

    Day 6: Big Hike and a Big Beach

    Things We Did:

    Awaawapuhi hike: This is a tough but totally worth it 6-ish mile hike to a spectacular viewpoint overlooking the Napali Coast. You park at the trailhead in Kokee State Park (pick up a hiking stick at the start of the trail), then head a little over 3 miles downhill to the overlook. This part’s pretty easy, unless it recently rained and then it’ll be slippery.

    The viewpoint has a metal observation rail, but you can walk down another 100 feet or so to a better view. From here you can keep going farther but it crosses a thin ledge that has 2,000 foot dropoffs on either side. Usually I’m all for those scrambles but I got vertigo just looking at it so stayed behind. The tough part on the hike comes on the way back up — it’s that same 3ish miles back uphill, so bring plenty of water. The whole hike takes 3-4 hours.

    Polihale Beach: The longest beach in Hawaii is also one of the most remote. To get here you’ve gotta bounce down a long unpaved potholey road (hence the Jeep, though it was dry so we saw smaller cars doing it). Once you’re here it’s rugged and beautiful — the cliffs of the Napali Coast bookend the northern beach, the waves are huge, the dunes are huge, and the beach stretches for like 7 miles. It’s a perfect place for a picnic, especially at sunset. But don’t plan on swimming, and be careful if it’s rainy — the road in floods.

    We then got back and tried to go to a farmers market in Koloa which is open on Wednesdays, but I think we missed it. Spent the evening watching whales and sunset from the condo in Poipu.

    Food:

    • Breakfast: Stopped at Aloha Roastery in Koloa town for coffee.
    • Lunch: After our hike we stopped at Island Taco over in Waimea. The food was good but for some weird reason they didn’t let you mix and match taco orders; your 2 tacos had to be the same type. Also slow service.
    • Dinner: Keokis Paradise is run by the same people who do Duke’s. It’s a fun open air tropical restaurant with tiki torches. Feels pretty touristy, but apparently locals like the bar too and hey, you’re a tourist. Eat at the bar for lower food prices (but still good options).

    Hotel: Poipu Kapili condo

    Day 7: Helicopter and Poipu

    Things We Did:

    Jack Harter Doors-Off Heli Flight: This is a total splurge that’s totally worth it. Seeing Kauai by helicopter gives you an amazing view of parts of the island that are otherwise inaccessible.

    Usually I think it’s best to do this early in your trip — that way you get a good sense of what’s where on the island and you have time to reschedule if the weather’s bad on flight day. We waited til the end of our trip because we had 2 friends coming in who we wanted to fly with. Went in the morning which is good for visibility— we lucked out and had no clouds on Mt. Wai‘ele‘ele so got to see the summit. But morning light on Napali is harder for photos; afternoon light is probably best for that part of the coast.

    We chose the doors-off helicopter because it is better for photos: you have no reflections getting in the way of your shots. It is cold though — wear pants and a jacket if you do it.

    Koloa Town: This little cross-roads is much cuter than resorty Poipu. There’s a block or two long stretch with cafes and some shops.

    Mahaulepu Beach: This is a beautiful rugged stretch of coast just east of Poipu. It’s hard to get to (made harder right now because there was a film set barring the main road in) — the road is unpaved so again a 4WD car is highly recommended. Keep an eye out for monk seals sleeping on the beach and whales playing offshore. There’s also a coastal trail here that goes from near the Grand Hyatt about 2 miles to the beach (we didn’t hike it though).

    Food

    • Breakfast: Ate groceries at the house
    • Lunch: Grabbed sandwiches and mac salad at Koloa Deli
    • Dinner: Made reservations for a sunset dinner at The Beach House, which is right on the water. This is one of Kauai’s “special occasion” spots (though I think sunset is a special enough occasion to go here on its own!). It’s a bit pricey, but the food (seafood and island faves) is fantastic and the sunset view is one of the best on this side of the island.

    Stay: Poipu Kapili

    Day 8: Waimea Canyon Hike and Departure

    Our flight didn’t leave til 11 pm (which was almost impossible to stay awake for, given the east coast time change), so we took advantage of our last full day plus friends who were staying longer’s B&B to shower before the plane.

    Things We Did:

    Canyon Trail Hike: This Waimea Canyon hike takes 1-2 hours and is about 3 miles round trip. It’s not too tough; you climb down to the canyon rim, then walk along that (look for goats on the cliffs) until you hear the waterfall (and people screaming in the cold water). This is the waterfall that you can see across the way at Waimea Canyon overlook; this hike takes you to the top of it, where you can sit overlooking the canyon. The climb back up is a bit of an effort, but not as long or sustained as Awaawapuhi.

    Getting to the trailhead’s the hardest part. For this you need a Jeep or 4WD — the road is crazy bumpy. If you don’t have that car you just have to park at the top and walk down said bumpy road an additional 3/4 of a mile to the trailhead.

    Puu o Kila Lookout: Just past Kalalau Lookout (stop there too; we were hungry so skipped it), this is where you’ll find that classic postcard view of the green folded cliffs of Napali Coast. Look down into the Kalalau Valley — apparently a bunch of hippies live off the grid in the jungle here (this is a fascinating story about them).

    Warehouse 3540: We drove by this place a bunch not really knowing what it was and finally stopped on our way back east. OMG what a cool spot — it’s a warehouse-turned-market for all these adorable artists and shops, plus a handful of food trucks. I bought some prints at Ocean Paper because I was obsessed with everything they had.

    The Palmwood: Our friends were spending the rest of their stay at the Palmwood, a B&B-style retreat in the jungle on the North Shore. What an amazingly peaceful and beautiful spot. Definitely want to come back here for a stay.

    Food

    • Breakfast: Cleaned out the last of our groceries at the condo.
    • Lunch: Kauai Poke Co. is one of the food trucks at Warehouse 3540. The poke bowls were delicious and use all locally caught ahi.
    • Dinner: En route to the airport we stopped in Kapaa for a meal at The Local. This friendly spot had live music and the walls were decked with amazing scenes by a local photographer. Most of the menu items are locally sourced.
  • Travel Books

    Travel Books

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    Mediocrem reprimique an vim, veniam tibique omittantur duo ut, agam graeci in vim. Quot appetere patrioque te mea, animal aliquip te pri. Ad vis animal ceteros percipitur, eos tollit civibus percipitur no. Posse definiebas dissentiunt mel ea, nam ferri utroque invenire an. Ius te iuvaret offendit pertinax, his verear deseruisse ex. Illud elitr eam eu. Id usu putant commune, stet primis expetenda cu vel. Mea ipsum homero apeirian te. Accumsan similique instructior ad pro, te purto dicit qui. Per eu unum persius, mei tantas postea in. Te his labores singulis, eum ei urbanitas adversarium. Ut quo numquam honestatis, qui populo percipit intellegat ea. Pri laudem tractatos hendrerit an.

    Qui ad idque soluta deterruisset, nec sale pertinax mandamus et. Eu mei soluta scriptorem dissentiet, cu vel sensibus cotidieque. Ne per malorum vivendum principes, congue imperdiet cu vel. Sit cu stet autem eligendi, eros reprimique mel id, no pri tation altera. At soluta fierent laboramus eum.Nam at dicant deterruisset. Nam at nulla choro denique, et cum quando. Et est eius pertinax, duo falli noster alienum et.

    With all that fear, it’s much easier to stay at home in our comfort
    zones than to break out and travel.

    Pri laudem tractatos hendrerit an. Mediocrem reprimique an vim, veniam tibique omittantur duo ut, agam graeci in vim. Quot appetere patrioque te mea, animal aliquip te pri. Ad vis animal ceteros percipitur, eos tollit civibus percipitur no. Posse definiebas dissentiunt mel ea, nam ferri utroque invenire an. Ius te iuvaret offendit pertinax, his verear deseruisse ex. Illud elitr eam eu. Id usu putant commune, stet primis expetenda cu vel. Mea ipsum homero apeirian te. Accumsan similique instructior ad pro, te purto dicit qui. Per eu unum persius, mei tantas postea in. Te his labores singulis, eum ei urbanitas adversarium. Ut quo numquam honestatis, qui populo percipit intellegat ea.

    Learn more in related article: Staying with a local family on Bali

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    Quot appetere patrioque te mea, animal aliquip te pri. Ad vis animal ceteros percipitur, eos tollit civibus percipitur no. Posse definiebas dissentiunt mel ea, nam ferri utroque invenire an. Ius te iuvaret offendit pertinax, his verear deseruisse ex. Illud elitr eam eu. Id usu putant commune, stet primis expetenda cu vel. Mea ipsum homero apeirian te. Accumsan similique instructior ad pro, te purto dicit qui. Mediocrem reprimique an vim, veniam tibique omittantur duo ut, agam graeci in vim. An sententiae disputando eos. Delicata voluptaria referrentur mel eu. Forensibus disputationi an eam. Sea ex delectus dignissim gloriatur, quem suas per ea. In solum menandri cum.

  • Beautiful Italy

    [mkdf_dropcaps type=”normal” color=”#000000″ background_color=””]L[/mkdf_dropcaps]orem ipsum dolor sit amet, adhuc iriure dissentias est in, est ne diam graece tincidunt. Sit et liber minimum tacimates, sea no doctus fastidii. An molestiae definiebas mel. Quo everti vituperata et, quo cu omnis maiorum. At soluta fierenti laboramus eum.Nam at dicant deterruisset. Nam at nulla choro denique, cum quando definitionem. Sea te nisl splendide, odio timeam an vim. Quas brute aliquam id per, et natum vocent eripuit sea. No mea feugiat nusquam ocurreret usu ad alter dicant. Ad aliquip dolorem scribentur, partem libris pri, ad sea verear postulant conceptam. Sed appellantur interpretaris cu, meis possit melius ut sed. Ex suas definiebas est, id his dicunt torquatos. Id euismod mentitum dissentiet duo, aeterno eripuit. Comprehensam, principes dissentiet est id. Primis eripuit ei vis, ne vis nibh delenit electram duo. At pri elitr utinam tempor, purto facilis vim ut.

    Mediocrem reprimique an vim, veniam tibique omittantur duo ut, agam graeci in vim. Quot appetere patrioque te mea, animal aliquip te pri. Ad vis animal ceteros percipitur, eos tollit civibus percipitur no. Posse definiebas dissentiunt mel ea, nam ferri utroque invenire an. Ius te iuvaret offendit pertinax, his verear deseruisse ex. Illud elitr eam eu. Id usu putant commune, stet primis expetenda cu vel. Mea ipsum homero apeirian te. Accumsan similique instructior ad pro, te purto dicit qui. Per eu unum persius, mei tantas postea in. Te his labores singulis, eum ei urbanitas adversarium. Ut quo numquam honestatis, qui populo percipit intellegat ea. Pri laudem tractatos hendrerit an.

    Qui ad idque soluta deterruisset, nec sale pertinax mandamus et. Eu mei soluta scriptorem dissentiet, cu vel sensibus cotidieque. Ne per malorum vivendum principes, congue imperdiet cu vel. Sit cu stet autem eligendi, eros reprimique mel id, no pri tation altera. At soluta fierent laboramus eum.Nam at dicant deterruisset. Nam at nulla choro denique, et cum quando. Et est eius pertinax, duo falli noster alienum et.

    With all that fear, it’s much easier to stay at home in our comfort
    zones than to break out and travel.

    Pri laudem tractatos hendrerit an. Mediocrem reprimique an vim, veniam tibique omittantur duo ut, agam graeci in vim. Quot appetere patrioque te mea, animal aliquip te pri. Ad vis animal ceteros percipitur, eos tollit civibus percipitur no. Posse definiebas dissentiunt mel ea, nam ferri utroque invenire an. Ius te iuvaret offendit pertinax, his verear deseruisse ex. Illud elitr eam eu. Id usu putant commune, stet primis expetenda cu vel. Mea ipsum homero apeirian te. Accumsan similique instructior ad pro, te purto dicit qui. Per eu unum persius, mei tantas postea in. Te his labores singulis, eum ei urbanitas adversarium. Ut quo numquam honestatis, qui populo percipit intellegat ea.

    Learn more in related article: Staying with a local family on Bali

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    [mkdf_custom_font title_tag=”” font_weight=”” font_style=”italic” text_transform=”none” text_decoration=”” text_align=”center” title=”“The Professional Hobo”” font_family=”Lora” font_size=”15px” line_height=”63px” color=”#959595″ letter_spacing=”-1″ margin=”-8px 0 0 0″]
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    [mkdf_custom_font title_tag=”” font_weight=”” font_style=”italic” text_transform=”none” text_decoration=”” text_align=”center” title=”“Never Ending Footsteps”” font_family=”Lora” font_size=”15px” line_height=”63px” color=”#959595″ letter_spacing=”-1″ margin=”-8px 0 0 0″]

    Quot appetere patrioque te mea, animal aliquip te pri. Ad vis animal ceteros percipitur, eos tollit civibus percipitur no. Posse definiebas dissentiunt mel ea, nam ferri utroque invenire an. Ius te iuvaret offendit pertinax, his verear deseruisse ex. Illud elitr eam eu. Id usu putant commune, stet primis expetenda cu vel. Mea ipsum homero apeirian te. Accumsan similique instructior ad pro, te purto dicit qui. Mediocrem reprimique an vim, veniam tibique omittantur duo ut, agam graeci in vim. An sententiae disputando eos. Delicata voluptaria referrentur mel eu. Forensibus disputationi an eam. Sea ex delectus dignissim gloriatur, quem suas per ea. In solum menandri cum.

  • What to Do with 5 Days in Dubrovnik

    What to Do with 5 Days in Dubrovnik

    I traveled to Dubrovnik for 5 days in July 2017. We used it as a base to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site walled city, track down Game of Thrones filming locations (it’s Kings Landing!), and take a handful of day trips, including to Montenegro and the island of Mljet.

    How to Get to Dubrovnik

    The main purpose of my trip was a wedding in Greece after the Dubrovnik leg. Turns out travel between Greece and Croatia is a lot tougher than I expected. There aren’t direct air connections daily, and if you’re hoping to travel by boat, be forewarned it takes like 26 hours via ferry and goes through Italy.

    Without my specific itinerary complication though, getting to Dubrovnik is pretty easy. There are plenty of connecting flights from other cities in Europe. There are ferries from other Croatian islands, like Split and Hvar. The airport is about 30 minutes from the city — a pretty drive along the coast. You can take the bus or a taxi cost 35-45 euros.

    Where to Stay in Dubrovnik

    I stayed in the heart of the Old City, in a wonderful studio apartment Airbnb. (GoT fans, it was right at the base of Ceresi’s Shame Stairs.) There are a ton of great Airbnbs in the Old City — just be prepared to walk up a lot of stairs (inside and on the side streets leading up to the houses). Most of the hotels themselves are outside the city.

    So, should you stay in Dubrovnik’s Old City or outside the walls? It kinda depends. Staying in the Old City is super convenient — you can walk home from the bars and restaurants at night, and you can pop home during the day for a bathroom or to cool down in a/c. But … it is CROWDED in there. Like middle-of-Times Square crowded. This made it pretty overwhelming any time we stepped out the door.

    If you aren’t into crowds, consider staying outside the city. I heard great things about the Hotel Excelsior, which is a short walk from the city walls. If you have money to spend and want to relax, the Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel had incredible views and looked amazing. Oh, and there’s also a hotel with a cave bar.

    What to Do in Dubrovnik

    Arrival Night

    After about 24 hours of travel, we arrived to the city around 9 pm. Entering the Old City through the Pile Gate (pronounced Pila) is probably the coolest entrance to a city I’ve ever made. You cross a drawbridge and it feels like you’re entering a castle. We made it out for dinner and a few drinks, then crashed at our Airbnb.

    Gradska Kavana Arsenal: A great place for dinner on one of the Old City’s main squares. We sat outside and sipped Croatian wine from Istria. I didn’t know it at the time, but it’s run by one of the city’s most prominent restaurant groups (that also runs Dubravka, Panorama, etc.).

    Gusto Giusto: Dubrovnik is full of these little hole-in-the-wall restaurant/bars on side streets. This one had a few small tables outside, and some people were just sitting on the steps. Small but interesting selection of local beers and wine, plus some cocktails that I didn’t try.

    Dubrovnik city walls
    Dubrovnik city walls

    Day 1

    We covered a lot of touristing ground today, and it was all fantastic. Knocked off three of the top things to do in Dubrovnik (walls, kayaking, Mt. Srd).

    City Walls: You can climb up onto the top of Dubrovnik’s walls and do a full loop around the city. It’s fantastic — the views are amazing and there are little cafes and bars to get refreshments along the way.

    The secret to doing the walls is to do it early —get up there at 8 am and be done by 10 — or late, around sunset time. Since this is probably the #1 thing to do in Dubrovnik, the walls get very crowded during the day. Plus there’s not a ton of shade so you’ll roast if you go midday. Ticket costs 150 kuna (at this writing Dubrovnik isn’t on the Euro), and there’s no reentry. To do the full loop takes about 1.5-2 hours.

    Trattoria Tezoro: Went here for breakfast. To be honest, all breakfasts were pretty much the same: you choose from American, French, Italian, etc. and then get some combo of OJ, coffee, sliced meat and cheese. 

    Sea Kayaking with Dubrovnik Walks: On a hot summer day sea kayaking tours are the best way to stay cool. This operator runs 7-km trips from right outside the city walls. You paddle around Lokrum Island and then stop at a beach in a cave. You can book in advance, though we reserved online about an hour before the trip.

    Mt. Srd cable car: For some of the best views of Dubrovnik, take the cable car to the top of Mt. Srd (or hike, if you’re up for a climb). There’s a museum and a restaurant at the top. Tip: Buy your tickets online beforehand (cost is about $22), then skip the line when you get to the cable car.

    Panorama: The restaurant at the top of Mt. Srd is the best meal with a view you’ll have in Dubrovnik. If you want to sit right on the edge for a sunset dinner you’ll have to make reservations a year or more in advance. But you can just walk in and get a non-edge seat (and if you stay past sunset you might be able to move seats closer).

    Panorama Restaurant
    Panorama Restaurant

    Day 2

    Dubravka: This restaurant right outside Pile gate is popular among locals and tourists. It has a great breezy patio overlooking the city walls. Good for any meal, and a little cheaper than the restaurants inside the walls.

    City tour: We joined a local tour guide from the Dubrovnik visitors’ bureau. Learned some interesting things:

    • The Franciscan pharmacy is one of the oldest in Europe — you can buy rose water here
    • Earthquakes are responsible for the varied architectural styles, while the war in the 1990s destroyed the city’s roofs, which is why they all look new
    • Friday is the city’s busiest day
    • Some restaurants to check out:
      • Azur (Mediterranean food with an Asian twist)
      • Prieko (street full of restaurants)
      • Mishta (vegetarian food)
      • Posaj (outside the city, local food)
      • Dolce Vita (ice cream)

    Restaurant Orsan: To escape the Old City crowds we headed over to Lapad, an easy cab ride away. Lunch at this harborside restaurant was relaxing, delicious and a bit cheaper than the tourist center prices.

    Lapad coastal trail: From nearby Restaurant Orsan, a quiet walking path meanders along the coast, past little piers and beaches. As it rounds the Lapad peninsula there are larger techno-bumping beach clubs and some resorts.

    Buza Bar: My favorite thing in Dubrovnik. Buza literally means “hole in the wall,” and these bars (there are two) sit on the rocks just outside the city walls. The first Buza is a bit more commercial — there are seats and a full bar setup. The second is more makeshift, but it is better for swimming. You can also BYOB to both of these spots.

    Lajk: This family run restaurant had outside tables on the Prieko street. Good food, local wines.

    Buza Bar
    Buza Bar

    Day 3

    Day trip to Montenegro: We hired a driver to take us across the border to Montenegro for a daytrip.

    More info about that on this blog post!

    Dubravka: Not just a breakfast spot — great for a big group dinner.

    Troubadour Jazz Cafe: Small bar with live music at night. Performers play outside so you can sit at the neighboring bars on the square if seats fill up.

    Perast Montenegro
    Perast, Montenegro

    Day 4

    Day trip to Mljet: We hopped a ferry to this large island with a national park about 1.5 hours away from Dubrovnik. Left at around 9 am and returned by around 6:30.

    More info about that day trip on this blog post!

    Restaurant Kopun: Tucked in a quiet square in front of the Jesuit Church, this restaurant specializes in castrated chicken (kopun). But there are plenty of other options on the menu too, and in tough-to-get-a-table Dubrovnik, it was a great option for walk-in outdoor dining for a group.

    Mljet
    Mljet

    Day 5

    Our flight was leaving at around 4:30, so we only had a partial day. We weren’t sure about going to Lokrum — might be too much of a production — but it was such a peaceful escape from Dubrovnik and super easy to get to.

    Lokrum: The small island off Dubrovnik is a super easy, relaxing break from the hot crowded city streets. It’s about a 10 minute ferry ride over there. Once on the island, there are beaches, chaise lounges, walking trails through forests with peacocks roaming, and a few restaurants. GoT fans, there’s also an Iron Throne you can pose on, and an exhibit of various Dubrovnik filming locations.

    Iron Throne dubrovnik
    Iron Throne on Lokrum

    Random Stuff You Should Know about Dubrovnik

    • Game of Thrones stuff is EVERYWHERE. There are tours all over, kitschy souvenirs and T-shirts for sale all over, and two Iron Thrones (one in the Old City that you can sit on after purchasing something in the shop, and a free one on Lokrum)
    • Restaurants inside the city walls are pricey. As soon as you step outside (like, even right outside at Dubravka) the prices drop.
    • Just reiterating the crowds. Overtourism is definitely a problem here.
    • Tourism is the main industry here, so most people speak English.
    • February 3rd is the city’s #1 celebration: St. Blaise festival
    • Some local products to buy: rose water, coral jewelry, embroidered goods.
    • It’s hard to get into many of Dubrovnik’s popular restaurants at dinner. If there’s a spot you want to try, make reservations.
  • What to Do with One Day in Seattle: Travel Guide

    What to Do with One Day in Seattle: Travel Guide

    Seattle was the second stop on my Canada-to-Mexico trip. I only had a short amount of time — 24 hours, to be exact — and it rained for some of it (duh), but I was still able to see a lot of the city. 

    How I Got Here

    Since I was coming from Vancouver, I took the scenic Amtrak Cascades train down from Canada. I wrote up some things you should know if you take that train here. I took the 6:30 train from Vancouver, which got me into Seattle’s King Street Station around 11 a.m.

    Where I Stayed

    I’m lucky to have a friend in Seattle, so I skipped the hotel and stayed with her.

    Day 1

    Pike Place Market: Tourist central, but when in Seattle you’ve gotta check it out. And despite the tourists and the crowds, it felt legit — like you’d totally buy the stuff here, rather than it being full of tacky souvenirs.

    Gum Wall: To one side of the market, this alley is pockmarked with chewed gum wads. The city actually removed it all recently because the gum was so heavy it was weighing down the buildings. But that didn’t discourage chewers, and the wall is back in action.

    Beecher’s Cheese: Seattle’s favorite cheesemonger is heaven for mac and cheese lovers like me. The cheese curds were pretty incredible, too. Worth the wait in line. 

    Original Starbucks: It’s a Starbucks with an old logo. And a really long line. I stopped for a pic, but I’m pretty sure the coffee inside is the same as all the other Starbucks you’ve ever had.

    Cloudburst Brewing: A new brewery that’s taking Seattle by storm. The brewers used to work for popular local brand Elysian but when that company was bought out by Anheuser-Busch, so they went out on their own and cook up a new type of beer every batch. The taproom is a casual and inviting industrial space.

    Gas Works Park: This park on Lake Union has giant rusted out gas tanks rising out of hte green grass. There’s also a covered pavilion with brightly painted iron gears, pipes and other machinery. Surrounding the park are a number of pretty houseboat communities and there’s a great skyline view of the city and Space Needle.

    Freemont Brewing: A short walk from Gasworks Park, this is one of the breweries to hang out at in Seattle. There’s a nice outdoor area that apparently gets packed on nice days (it wasn’t too crowded on this cloudy Saturday afternoon). Inside they have big bowls of free pretzels and apples that you can munch on with your beers.

    Stroup Brewing: Tucked in the Ballard neighborhood between residential houses, this little brewery has a funky beer garden patio and a local food truck parked outside. We got a growler to go on our way to Discovery Park. 

    Discovery Park: A massive green space with odd buildings reminiscent of Lost’s Darma Initiative, this park has a lot of nice walking trails and some great views of the Olympic Peninsula and mountains. It also has a bunny problem; apparently Seattleites? have been releasing their pet rabbits here and they’re reproducing like, well, rabbits. You’ll probably see them nibbling around the park. 

    Ballard Neighborhood: This used to be the salty seamen’s hangout; now it’s one of Seattle’s hipster hoods. Ballard Ave is lined with boutique bars and shops.

    Percy’s & Co.: An apothecary-themed spot, there are jars of cocktail concoctions and eyedroppers of drink elixirs on the back bar of the brick-walled bar. I told the bartender I was in the mood for a mule and she whipped up some mint-mule-champagne concoction that was amazing. 

    Sexton: Another really good cocktail spot, plus solid modern American food: think boar burgers, chicken pot pie, and a few types of mac and cheese. The cocktails here were good too, and there’s an outdoor back patio for when the weather cooperates. 

    Day 2

    Pioneer Square: Seattle’s historic heart, this square was overrun with film crews shooting the sequel of 50 Shades of Grey. (They asked, but I declined to be an extra…) It’s a nice space, but there are a lot of homeless people nearby — some were super friendly, others were pretty aggressive.

    Underground Tour: Seattle was originally built lower than it is now; to make up for the tides and sewer issues the city rebuilt itself a whole level higher after it burned down in the late 1800s. You can still go underground and see the old storefronts and sidewalks, plus a lot of crap that people threw down there. Speaking of crap, the word apparently comes from Crapper, the man who popularized the modern toilet, which played a big role in Seattle’s development. The tour cost $19 for about 75 minutes of Seattle history, underground exploring, and toilet jokes. 

  • How to Spend 9 Days in Peru: Travel Guide

    How to Spend 9 Days in Peru: Travel Guide

    I spent a week in Peru in November (over Thanksgiving) with a friend. We visited Cusco, Lima, and hiked the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. Here’s what we did:

    How I Got There

    We flew Avianca from Dulles to Cusco, transferring through San Salvador and Lima (and snoozing in that airport for a bit since there was a latenight layover).

    Where I Stayed

    Cusco: Hotel Marqueses: About a 5-minute walk from the Plaza de Armas, this charming little hotel was quiet, clean, and rooms overlooked a nice little interior courtyard with a fountain. Because the hotel was next door to our Inca Trail trekking company, they let us store our bags there during our trip (though they might do that anyway, the staff was super accommodating).

    Aguas Calientes: Hostel Viajeros: If you’re coming off four days of Inca Trail hiking, this place is fine (it has toilets and marginally functional showers, which is all you’ll care about at this point). Otherwise steer clear; it’s old, dark, and dingy.

    Lima: Hotel Antigua Miraflores: A cute and quirky hotel in Miraflores. It kind of feels like staying in someone’s mansion, and the restaurant is good.

    What I Did

    Day 1: Cusco

    Plaza de Armas: The main square in Cusco, and my favorite spot. Come here any time of day, but at sunset the dusk light is beautiful. There are two churches here — the Cathedral and Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, where you can climb up for a good view of the square. There are also a handful of restaurants and bars surrounding the plaza where you can get seats on balconies overlooking everything.

    San Cristobal Church: Since we, like many visitors to Cusco, were here to acclimate before hitting the high-altitude Inca trail, we figured we’d start exploring with a bit of a hike up to this church overlooking the city. This. Was. Hard. Altitude is no joke. But the view from this church is a great one, and worth the breathlessness.

    San Francisco Church and Monastery: We “popped” in to see the bones in the church’s catacombs, but didn’t realize this meant joining a very long and uninteresting tour. There was some nice art (and some very strange fantastical modern art), but plan for an hour if you’re going to visit/do the tour.

    Papachos: A contemporary burger restaurant with balconies overlooking Plaza de Armas. There’s a good alpaca burger here (alpaca is one of your “must try” Peruvian dishes). Gaston Acurio, the chef, is a big deal in Peru.
    San Pedro Market: Food, crafts, and alpaca knits. This big market is a great place for snacks or to load up on local knick knacks for people back home.

    Qurikancha: You can see layers of history here. It once was the most important Incan temple, covered in gold to honor the sun god. Then Spanish colonialists took all the gold and built a church on the site. Now you can see the ancient temple walls as well as the church, a convent, and a nice little garden.

    Pisco Museum: Museum is a strong term, this is really just a bar with an enormous pisco selection and some enlightening wall art about how the drink is made.

    Calle del Medio Restaurant: You can try fancy cuy (guinea pig) here. “Fancy” because your dish won’t look like a roasted rat (as other places serve it) … the cuy here comes in more of a filet form, adorned with flowers and salad.

    Day 2: Cusco

    San Blas: An artsy neighborhood up a hill. It’s an easy walk from the Plaza de Armas and a great place for eating, shopping, and wandering. The small square around the San Blas church has lots of local craft and jewelry vendors, and some shops nearby sell alpaca knits.

    Cafe Loco: Supposedly one of the best coffee spots in Cusco. I don’t drink coffee so have to defer to others on this.

    Jack’s Cafe: One of the most popular expat hangouts, this place has HUGE sandwiches and is a good brunch spot. There’s no WiFi (they’re so popular they can’t give people more reason to linger longer).

    Cava Mora Restobar: A balcony bar and restaurant overlooking Plaza de Armas.

    Cicciolina: An upstairs, upscale tapas and wine bar, this place buzzes at dinner time. The food is excellent, and ranges from Italian to Spanish to Peruvian.

    Day 3: Inca Trail

    Inca Trail: this is the “easy” day. (Easy is all relative.) See my Inca Trail post for full details.

    Day 4: Inca Trail

    The “challenge” day of the Inca Trail. Basically you climb straight up, then down, a 14,000-foot Andean peak. Diamox is essential.

    Day 5: Inca Trail

    The “unforgettable” day – you’ll start seeing more and more Incan archaeological sites. But it’s also the longest day, with lots of tromping down stairs.

    Day 6: Inca Trail & Machu Picchu

    Machu Picchu! Thank god.

    Doing the hike, you arrive in the early morning at the Sun Gate. Then you’ll have to climb down and grab tickets and re-enter to tour the site.

    Aguas Calientes: The little tourist hub at the base of Machu Picchu. I don’t have a lot of great things to say about this town, except that there are toilets with seats and beds with sheets. And pizza. Believe me, after 4 days of trekking these were all incredible luxuries. Otherwise it’s a town of kitschy souvenirs and tourist restaurants and bars.

    Day 7: Machu Picchu & Cusco

    Huayna Picchu: You need a timed ticket to climb the iconic mountain at Machu Picchu. It’s about a 45-minute hike up the mountain, once at the top you’ll have awesome views of the site below. There are some viewing ledges where many people stop their climb, though you can go all the way to the boulder-y top. Coming down you have two choices: the short way, which is NOT for anyone who’s scared of heights (these stairs are part of the route), or the long way around the mountain past the Temple of the Moon. The long way is LONG — for me, after 4 days of Inca Trail trekking, the extra 3 hours of hiking up and down through the humid jungle this was the last straw for my legs. So I’d recommend the shorter route unless you find heights debilitating.

    Train from Aguas Calientes to Cusco: The tourist train has big windows so you can take in the sights. Unfortunately ours broke down and then had to pull another broken train so it was dark for most of the ride. The train doesn’t connect all the way to Cusco; you have to take a bus for the last 45 mins or so.

    McDonalds: Yes, we ate McDonalds in Peru. For Thanksgiving dinner. We were supposed to arrive back in Cusco around 7 pm but because of delays we didn’t get back til closer to 11. So, McDonalds it was.

    Day 8: Lima

    La Mar Cebicheria: Lima’s not my favorite place, but the food here is definitely worth a stop. This trendy restaurant is in a fringe part of the Miraflores neighborhood, but once inside we were wowed by the cocktails and tasting flights of ceviche. One of the best meals of our Peru trip.

    Huaca Pucllana: An ancient, pre-Incan ruin, right in the middle of urban Miraflores. Honestly, historical significance aside, this site was super underwhelming; it looks like a big pile of bricks. Worth a 10 minute visit, or better yet, come at night when the ruins are lit.

    Costa Verde and Larcomar: This coastal string of parks and upscale shopping mall built into a sea cliff is a nice way to stretch your legs in Miraflores. There are art installations and workout stations along the way.

    Barranco: This is Lima’s coolest hood — for nightlife, come here. Bars and restaurants are hopping, galleries and outdoor art bring the culture, and you’ll find random pop-up street performances.

    Orient Express: This tiny bar in Barranco is modeled after a train car. Climb aboard and sip some delicious pisco sours.

    Day 9: Lima

    Plaza de Armas: Downtown Lima’s central square is grander than its Cusco counterpart.

    Convento de San Francisco: The catacombs here are the real deal. You also have to join a tour to visit the skulls and bones in the crypt. Photography isn’t technically allowed here.

    La Casa de la Literatura: A museum honoring Peruvian writers, this place is a must for any book nerds.

    Hotel Bolivar: This classic hotel in downtown Lima claims to have the best pisco sours in the city.

  • Best Restaurants in D.C. (According to Me)

    Best Restaurants in D.C. (According to Me)

    My ongoing effort to casually document the good (and not so good) restaurants I’ve tried around the District.

    Adams Morgan

    Tail Up Goat: small plates and yummy craft cocktails

    Dupont Circle

     

    14th Street/U Street

    Compass Rose: awesome menu of street food small plates from around the world

    Le Diplomate: French bistro that’s a standby on 14th street

    Lupo Verde: my favorite Italian restaurant

    Shaw & Bloomingdale

    The Red Hen: perfectly cooked pasta & Italian, in good but not gluttony-inducing portion sizes in a cozy-hip setting

    Columbia Room: a swanky prohibition-style den in Blagden Alley. Their special cocktail tasting menu is worth the $80 splurge.

    Downtown D.C.

    Petworth

    Timber Pizza: small shop with gourmet made-to-order thin crust pizza and an interesting lineup of craft beers

    H Street NE

    Arlington

    Ambar: Balkan tapas in a airy plant-filled corner space in Clarendon.

    Lyon Hall: Belgian beer, mussels and subway tile in a moody-mod space (think candle bulbs and subway tiles)

    Yona

    Northside Social

    Pupatella

    Alexandria

    On My Radar (Haven’t Tried Yet, but Worth Mentioning)

    Pineapple and Pearls or Roses Luxury: two of the foodiest spots in DC

     

     

  • What to Do When You Visit D.C. in Winter

    What to Do When You Visit D.C. in Winter

    A friend wrote me in late December asking for some tips for some friends visiting D.C. Since a lot of my favorite spots are better in summer, here’s a list of some winter recommendations I sent over.
    Overall for food/drinks I’d recommend going to these neighborhoods: 14th St./Logan Circle, U Street and Shaw. 14th/U is really the hub of dining and nightlife so you can walk along til you find a place that has something you like. Shaw is a tad less corridor-like; you need to have more of a destination, but it’s where a lot of the new hotspots are opening. Dupont Circle and Adams Morgan are still good food and drinks spots. I wouldn’t recommend Gtown these days, except for a few spots or for shopping during the day.

    A few of my favorite bars are:

    • Churchkey: beer galore (we got drinks here when you were in town a while back)
    • Bar Pilar: cozy & classic bar on 14th
    • McClellan’s Retreat: a good one for history nerds, this bar is Civil War themed
    • Board Room: board game-themed bar, good for holing up on cold nights
    • Vegas Lounge: live band turns this place into a Motown/Pop dance party
    • Wok and Roll: drunk latenight (or not so latenight) karaoke

    Some restaurants to look at:

    Local Booze: there are a ton of great local beers to try/breweries (3 Stars, Atlas, DC Brau, Right Proper, Port City), but other local booze is also buzzy, like the ANXO Cidery and District Distilling Co.

    Quintessential “DC” spots:

    • The rooftop bar at the W Hotel is probably one of the best views in DC, overlooking WH/Mall
    • Off the Record in the Hay Adams hotel has fun political cartoon coasters you can steal
    • The Watergate Hotel opened and I think it’s overdone but if it happens to be warm there’s a great new rooftop bar overlooking Gtown

    Other things to do:

    • I’d say good luck getting tickets to the new African American museum … they’re booked til April, though there are some daily giveaways I think.
    • The East Wing of the National Gallery of Art just reopened and is cool
    • The Renwick Gallery is really fun for some Instagram action
    • One of my favorite lesser known spots on the Mall is the US Botanical Garden – in winter it’s a nice tropical jungle to escape into.
    If they’re Hamilton fans, then this guide might be of interest 🙂
  • The Best Road Trip from Seattle to San Francisco

    The Best Road Trip from Seattle to San Francisco

    July 2016 on Marriott Traveler || That PCH route from San Francisco to Los Angeles gets all the attention, but it’s not the only West Coast drive that should be on your map. A road trip through the Pacific Northwest and Northern California is equally epic, but with less traffic. You’ll see some of the West Coast’s fastest growing cities, majestic national parks, windswept beaches and sunsets that need no filter. Here’s the route.

    See full article>>

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