In November 2014 I took a 2-day food-centric trip to Philadelphia. The visit was sponsored by Visit Philly, who gave me a budget $400 to eat my way through the city. Here’s what I did:
How I Got There
Philadelphia is an easy Amtrak ride from D.C.; it takes about two hours.
Where I Stayed
Lowes Hotel: A luxurious hotel set in a historic 1930s skyscraper. The building used to be the old PSFS bank, and is centrally located in Center City (right at Reading Terminal Market and a 15-minute walk to Independence Hall).
Friday
Bank and Bourbon: The restaurant in the Lowes Hotel has a farm-focused menu and a lot of bourbon. The decor and theme plays up the building’s past as a bank. Try the Secret Knock cocktail, which is a blend of bourbon and milk.
Reading Terminal Market: Food bazaar full of colorful stalls and vendors. You can get grocery items here, as well as to-go food, like pork and beef sandwiches at Dinic’s. I tried one of the classics: a roast pork with provolone and broccoli rabe sandwich.
Independence National Historic Park: This square is steeped in history. Start at the Visitor Center to get your bearings, then head over to Constitution Hall, which has a fabulous circular exhibit detailing the constitutional and political history of the U.S. From there it’s an easy walk down a central lawn to Independence Hall. Nearby is the Liberty Bell (likely with a line of people waiting to catch a glimpse). Rangers tell stories about the bell, like what’s the difference between the crack and the gap.
McGillin’s Olde Ale House: The oldest operating bar in Philly (since around 1860). Around the holidays it’s decked out in pubby Christmas decor and they have a few house beers on tap.
Percy Street BBQ: A go-to spot for beers and BBQ. It’s a super lively spot (I got a seat at the bar) and claims to have the largest selection of craft beer cans in the country.
Saturday
Philadelphia Museum of Art: On the river, near some of Philly’s other art museums. There’s a solid collection of Impressionist art. But the main attraction may be what’s outside the museum: the Rocky Steps and Rocky Statue. Go ahead and run up the stairs — you won’t be the only one doing it.
Vetri: Namesake restaurant for one of Philly’s top chefs, this place is warm and inviting and churns out food that’s just artful. Try the chef’s table — you’ll feel like you’re hanging out in the chef’s kitchen eating some of the best Italian food in the city.
Magic Garden: A labyrinth of mirrored mosaic walls and reclaimed stuff like bike wheels and bottles. I nominate this spot as the best place to Instagram in the city. Only 7 bucks to get in.
Dirty Franks: A cash-only real Philly dive bar (including a piñata and stuff hanging from the ceiling). Cash only. Pretty sure the bartender only heard alcohol orders; water did not compute.
Kanella: Fantastically accommodating and homey Cypriot restaurant. Everything on the menu was authentic and delicious (my Greek friend and dining companion approved). Best of all, it’s BYOB.
Sunday
Supper: Nothing says brunch like a 3-level burger and red velvet waffles. (Uh oh, looks like this place is now closed. Too bad!)
Cheesesteak wars: Tried Pat’s and Geno’s, the two Philly cheesesteak rivals that sit cady corner to one another. We got a cheesesteak (wit wiz) at each and did a taste test. The verdict? Geno’s for the win, thanks to its better meat and bread.
Going to Iceland? Do not forget your camera. This is one of the most photogenic countries out there, with stunning volcanic landscapes, epic waterfalls, colorful houses, geysers, wildlife and more.
Here are some photos from my trips to Iceland that capture why this is one of my favorite places to travel.
You can walk right up to powerful Skógafoss on Iceland’s South Coast.
Driving around the island? Pull over to say hello to the Icelandic horses.
A man fishes at a waterfall on Iceland’s South Coast.
You’ll have to scramble behind a rock face to find the hidden Gljúfrabúi, a waterfall near Seljalandsfoss.
Reynisfjara, a black volcanic sand beach with massive sea cliffs near Vik on Iceland’s South Coast.
People gather at the base of Skógafoss.
Iceland’s top tourist attraction, the Blue Lagoon, is an easy stop on your way to or from the airport.
Whale watching tours leave daily from Reykjavik.
Seljalandsfoss is one of Iceland’s most spectacular waterfalls.
A view from behind Seljalandsfoss — you can walk all the way around the falls.
A few people in my hiking group chuckled nervously when Jeffrey, our twentysomething Patagonia-clad guide, delivered this warning. My mom, Margaret, who stood a few feet up the trail, shot me a “what the hell did you get me into” stare.
I grinned back, bouncing with giddy excitement. Moose! Bears! This was exactly why I came to Alaska.
For many nature-loving travelers, an African safari is the ultimate bucket list trip. The search for Africa’s “Big Five”—lions, elephants, cape buffalo, leopards and rhinos—is a wildlife watcher’s rite of passage. But most people don’t realize that you can get an epic safari experience here in the United States. Alaska has its own Big Five, and you can see them all in Denali National Park. Read more…
In late April/early May I took a family vacation to Portugal—a multigenerational trip for my grandma’s 80th birthday. Here are my (rough, unedited) notes on what I did:
How I Got There
United flight from Newark: it was a small plane for an overseas flight; just 3 and 3 seats.
Where I Stayed
Lisbon
Portuguese Soul: A 5-bedroom apartment that can sleep up to 15 people near the Saldanha metro station. The owner is a local artist and each room is beautifully decorated with its own themed artwork, such as a full-wall line sketch of the Lisbon cathedral.
Douro
Quinta de la Rosa: A working quinta (vineyard) near Pinhao, this place overlooks the river and has a fabulous outdoor terrace where meals are served. Ask for one of the newer suites; there’s a huge difference in quality between these and the rooms in the old house (those are closer to the water, but small and musty).
Sintra
Apartment rental: Another beautifully decorated apartment. The owner of this unit is a photographer, and the walls are adorned with enlarged prints from his shoots at the Lisbon Botanical Garden. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk to downtown Sintra.
Day 1: Lisbon
I walked from Saldanha house down Aves Republica and Liberadade, over to Alfama and up the hill to Castelo Sao Jorge. Then walked down the twisty narrow streets and had lunch at a small cafe. Continued the walk downhill to the Se. From there I took taxi to the Tile Museum, though I skipped 3rd floor, which everyone kept mentioning. Did I miss something epic?
Ate dinner at Cafe no Chiado, which served delicious risotto and had a full wall of books—it felt like eating in someone’s library. From there I took a cab to Bairro Alto and bar hopped until 3:30 in the morning, trying cocktails, ginjinhas and Super Bocks at the New Orleans-like bar nooks and street party.
Lisbon streets
Castelo Sao Jorge
Avenida da Liberadade tiles
Peacock at the castle
Lisbon window
Tile museum
Day 2: Lisbon
I rode the bus from Saldanha to Belem, a waterfront neighborhood a good 45 minute ride from downtown Lisbon. The previous night’s bar hopping made for a rough morning, punctuated by a bumpy bus. From the top of the hill where the bus dropped off, I walked through a small botanical garden, then down to the enormous Jeronimos Monastery.
Ate lunch at Banana Cafe, an outdoor to-go spot across from the monastery with surprisingly fresh salads. Desert was pastries from the Pasteis de Belem—I didn’t go inside but it’s apparently tiled beautifully. I then walked along water past the Soviet-like Monument to the Discoveries statue and the stubby little Belem tower from which Vasco de Gama departed.
It took a while to find a cab from the Belem Tower. Spent the evening at Miradouro Sao Pedro for sunset and sangria. Walked to Bairro Alto for din at touristy place. Took funicular down to Rossio and had ginjas at Ginjinha sem Rival.
Blue tiled houses in Belem
Monasterio dos Jeronimos
Belem Tower
Miradouro Sao Pedro
Miradouro Sao Pedro
Ginjinhas sem Rival
Day 3: Lisbon
Took the metro to 2nd to last stop on blue line, Terreiro do Paco, and got out in a large square, Praca do Comercio. Ate lunch in a sidewalk cafe right off the square on Avenida Augusta and took the Tram 28 to Miradouro da Graca. Then walked down to Miradouro Santa Luzia, which had a different perspective than the other miradouros (away from the city center) and had a “beerodouro.” Continued walking down through Alfama past the Santa Justa Elevator and to the Restauradores metro stop. Went home to Saldanha via Sao Sebastio; walked to big Soviet-like park with giant Portuguese flag.
Ate dinner at Tagide to celebrate my grandma’s 80th birthday. Located in Chiado, it’s a Michelin-rated restaurant with great city views.
Miradouro da Graca
Tram 28
Miradouro de Santa Luzia
Rossio square
Parque Eduardo VII
Chiado at night
Day 4: Road Trip – Lisbon, Obidos, Nazare, Aveiro, and Douro
Drove from Lisbon to Obidos, about an hour away. It’s a well preserved walled medieval town; you can climb the walls and walk around the perimeter. Ate lunch at a shady outdoor cafe near the church. Gihnjas de Obidos, the must-try cherry liqueur show served in a chocolate thimble are from here, and there are plenty of bars with tables outside serving the drink. There are also vendors with art, cork bags and other souvenirs, but the town escapes a total “tourist trap” feel.
From Obidos I drove to Nazare, about 30 minutes away. I got out at an overlook near the Farol da Nazare and hiked down the hill to the lighthouse point. This is where, when conditions are right, the some of the world’s biggest waves ever surfed break. There’s a beautiful deserted beach on one side, and while it was flat the day I was there, there are signs detailing the surfing feats that have happened here. I then went back up to the little town center, where a miradouro overlooks the main Nazare beach. You can’t see the lighthouse from town, so you have to walk or drive down (careful, it’s windy).
About 2 hours’ drive from Nazare is Aveiro, known as the Venice of Portugal. Honestly, there’s not much here for a quick visit. I got some pretty pictures at the one canal I saw, but it felt both touristy and shabby. I don’t know if there’s an actual purpose for the canals. ATMs worked here at least; had problems using the ones in Lisbon.
From Aveiro it was on to the Douro. When I reached the valley, rain clouds were rolling through, with patches of light shining on terraced vineyard hills and a green river. Once you get into quinta country you’ll be on a super windy cliffside roads that are very narrow.
Got to Quinta de la Rosa just in time for the communal dinner. There was only one dish/menu served; not a lot of choice for picky eaters (my plate of shredded cod and potatoes went untouched). But the wine and port is served liberally!
Obidos
Obidos
Nazare
Nazare
Nazare
Aveiro
Day 5: Douro
Started the day with a private boat ride on Douro, departing from Pinhao (a 5 minute drive down the hill from Quinta de la Rosa). We passed quintas, terraced hills, and only one other boat—it was very peaceful.
Then drove to Restaurante DOC, a food temple on the river. The service, setting, and food was all wonderful. I loved the pop rocks mini dessert and the fact that one of the tasting menus is called an “olive oil menu.” After lunch I went to Quinta do Tedo and sampled some red ports—you should call ahead to quintas to reserve a time to visit, it’s harder to just walk in.
That night I had dinner in Pinhao, a river cruise port town that was dead at night (only one river cruise ship was docked tonight, and the passengers stayed on board). Ended up eating at a family spot, Adega Grande Porto. Again, one meal on the menu, but LOTS of it: huge carafes of wine, and pork, sausage, lamb, Port soaked cake, Port tasting glasses, etc.
Douro
DOC
Douro quinta
Day 6: Road Trip – Douro, Coimbra, Sintra
Drive to Coimbra from Douro (2 hrs or so). It’s a medieval/university town, an odd mix. Lunch at Cafe Santa Cruz, a restaurant built out of part of the adjacent church. I then spent an hour or so walking around the town and across bridge for city views. I then meandered up to the university but left without finding good views.
I drove 2 more hours to Sintra, playground of palaces about a half hour from Lisbon. You can see the Moorish Castle atop the hill as you drive in. I walked into town and had a large drink at the centrally located outdoor patio at Hockey Cafe. A short walk away from the main square is a quiet miradouro; I sat here and watched the sunset. Had dinner at Ristorante Alcobaca, which had a large shark figurine hanging out front. After dinner I got a drink at the bar across from the Sintra National Palace.
Coimbra
Coimbra
Coimbra
Moorish castle above Sintra
Day 7: Sintra
From Sintra, I walked up to the Moorish Castle. It was a long, hot walk up—so many stairs. It’s a cool open air fort, with a lot more stairs. There were long lines to the Pena Palace by bus so I walked through the woods, which took about 10 minutes. Tip: go to the Moorish Castle first and buy tickets for both sites there; it’s cheaper and will save you a long wait in line at Pena.
Pena Palace is a wonky-colored (purple, yellow, black and white checkered) mismatched building set on beautiful grounds. It’s easy to get lost here, especially on the side paths in the gardens. Skip the rooms in the palace (they’re crowded) but walk around the castle exterior and the gardens (be sure to go up to the cross).
Back in Sintra I had a giant sangria at Hockey Caffe. Watched the sunset at the same miradouro, this time with vinho, and then dinner at a little restaurant right off the miradouro. Had beers at a latenight bar and walked home with the Moorish Castle glowing in the night.
Moorish castle
Moorish castle over Sintra
Palacio da Pena gardens
Pena Palace
Pena Cross
Palacio da Pena gardens
Palacio da Pena
Day 8: Road Trip – Sintra, Azenhas do Mar, Cabo da Roca, Cascais
I drove half hour from Sintra to Azenhas do Mar, a tiny seaside town with an awesome miradouro. Ate lunch at Nortada, a restaurant overlooking the ocean. Drove a little farther down the coast to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in continental Europe. From there it was on to Cascais (with a stop at Boca de Inferno, which sometimes turns into a blowhole, though today there were no waves). Cascais was a casual waterside town with a slight, but not super, beachy vibe. I browsed some market stalls and had a beer at a bar on a side street before heading back to Sintra.
Published July 28, 2014 on MapQuest || “Sharknado 2” is about to unleash a second storm of toothy terror, while “Shark Week” prepares to enchant viewers with its yearly run of aerodynamic great whites. Meanwhile, “Jaws” continues to scare beachgoers out of the water.
Between TV and movie spots and the news flurry around shark sightings around the U.S., Jaws and Co. are living large this summer. With all the Hollywood fanfare and media frenzy, you’d think a shark encounter is a normal part of going to the beach. Read more…
Published July 15, 2014 on MapQuest || Watching the sun set from the westernmost point in the United States means you’ll be the last person in the country to end the day. The problem is, Alaska’s Attu Island is not your typical sunset spot. In order to actually be the last person to see the day, you’ll have to overcome a few hurdles. Read more…
Published June 26, 2014 on MapQuest || Some people spend two or three hours at the Louisville Slugger factory museum exhibits. But the best way to understand the evolution of the game is to swing your way through generations of bat replicas in the Kentucky museum’s batting cage. Read more…
In March I took a last minute trip to San Juan, Puerto Rico for 3 days (3 nights). Here’s what I did there:
How I Got There
JetBlue flight from JFK: so much legroom, plus with in-flight TV I got to watch March Madness on the plane.
Where I Stayed
Quality Inn El Portal: I booked the trip about 4 days before my departure date, during high spring break season, so most budget hotels and Airbnbs (and all hostels) were booked. This place was clean, the staff was friendly, there was a (very basic) continental breakfast and it was a 5 minute walk from Condado beach. About $150/night; $25 cab from the airport.
Thursday
Bodega Chic: I met my friend Liz after her dinner here. She raved about the French-Caribbean food. Staff was full of recommendations for bars, restaurants and things to do.
La Factoria: Liz’s reaction to this place: “It feels like a Mumford and Sons concert in here.” Turns out there are hipsters in San Juan, and this converted factory-turned cocktail den is where they hang out.
La Taberna Lúpulo: Craft beer is just starting to become cool in PR but there still aren’t many places to get it. This is one of the best beer bars on the island, with 50 brews on tap.
Cafetin Marrero: A quieter neighborhood bar with a retro New York juke box and bathrooms outside in the back. When we were here the bartender was giving an old man a haircut.
El Batey: Feels like it should be in Brooklyn (the MetroCards hanging from a lamp help), there isn’t an inch of wall in this bar that hasn’t been scribbled on.
Old San Juan at NightLa FactoriaLa FactoriaCafetin MarreroEl BateyEl Batey
Friday
Latin Star Cafe: Not recommended. It looked quick and was on the way to the beach. Cold food and slow service.
Condado Beach: Your average hotel-fronted Caribbean beach. But there’s warm water, a few palm trees and ample sand… and when it’s 35 degrees on the East Coast, those things are sometimes all I care about.
Castillo San Felipe del Morro: Came here for sunset, but the fort itself closes at 6 so didn’t make it inside. Beautiful sunset gathering spot though, overlooking the bay.
Barrachina: Home of the original pina colada. It was the best pina colada I’ve ever had, so I was shocked when the women next to me asked for a wine list.
Cafe Puerto Rico: This place was busy, but there was a public square with a dance and drum performance across the street during the wait. Great mofongo here – worth the wait.
Old Harbor Brewery:Another beer spot in San Juan, though this one brews its own. Try the Coqui beer, a light lager, but for a better selection, Lupulo is your spot.
CondadoCondadoCastillo San Felipe del MorroSunsetBarrachinaBarrachina
Saturday
El Yunque: Rented a car in Condado and drove out about an hour to El Yunque. The rainforest was good for a few hikes and a view from the Yokahu Tower. If you’re brave (I wasn’t), take a dip in the freezing water at La Mina Falls. Spent about 3 hours here.
Luquillo and the Kiosks: Circled through Luquillo town, which was sketchy and abandoned, then backtracked to the “kioskos” a mile or so east. The food kiosks start to all look the same, but the offerings were cheap and delicious. There are also bar and shopping vendors here. Walk through the kiosks onto Luquillo Beach. On Saturday it blows up into a local party spot, with music blasting from trucks that had subwoofers the size of a car. Red lifeguard shacks, yellow sand, blue sky, and green palms makes for a colorful photo op.
Fajardo and the Bioluminescent Bay: Lesson learned – plan ahead if you want to go on a bio tour. I only got on one due to a cancellation. Another tip – opt for a boat tour vs a kayak. You’ll stay dry and can use your camera. The bio bay tours leave from a little port village with a few touristy (but quality) vendors and beach bars.
Note: Saturday night traffic in Condado is terrible, and there aren’t many gas stations. Fill up your car before getting back into the heart of San Juan, or be prepared to spend 2 hours in traffic.
El YunqueEl YunqueLuquillo BeachLuquillo BeachFajardo Bio BayFarjado Bio Bay
